March 19, 2018
I had been in Chacala when our friends, Nancy and Shoshana,
arrived to visit Don the previous night.
They texted me in the morning and I walked down to CafĂ© Shule’l to meet
them for breakfast. We chatted and ate
and then headed to Bucerias to get cash.
Bucerias Street Scene |
We took the combi to the bank and then walked down the hill
to Lazaro Cardenas Blvd. It was Nancy
and Shoshana’s first time in Bucerias and Don had never been south of the
arroyo before. We strolled down the
street and Nancy and Shoshana browsed through the shops. It was a gorgeous day and they were all
impressed with how beautiful everything was.
Eventually, we came to the arroyo and walked down onto the
beach. We stopped for a drink in one of
the beach bars and relaxed in the shade.
Then we walked all the way along the beach back to La Cruz. The tide was low, so we had no trouble getting
back, but there were a few spots where we had to climb over rocks. It was late afternoon by the time we got
back. We separated at that point to rest
and freshen up before dinner.
We met again at the Octopus’ Garden for an early dinner
before attending a showing of Taulua, the
Paper Boat, a documentary about how Wayland and Aruna (the owners of
Octopus’ Garden) had built and sailed their catamaran, Taulua, from England to La Cruz.
Remarkably, they had documented the entire process of building the
boat. The boat was built completely by
hand, starting with cutting down a tree for lumber. The hull was made of layers of canvas, paper
and tar. The sail was a wing design with
battens resembling a junk. Built in the
early 80s, the rig was well ahead of its time.
The boat performed well and got them from England to Mexico with many
adventures along the way. Unfortunately,
it was very flammable. When it was
beached in La Cruz and being disassembled to use its materials to build the
Octopus’ Garden, it caught fire and burned like a torch.
March 20, 2018
Punta de Mita Anchorage from the Blue Shrimp |
Tuesday, we got a reasonably early start and sailed to Punta
de Mita on Comet. We had a nice breeze and spent a lovely day
tacking up there. Two humpback whales
approached the boat and I had to change course to avoid one of them. We arrived about 3:00 and dropped the hook
fairly close in to shore on the point side of the anchorage. It was a bit too breezy to play in the water,
so we had a beer and relaxed until it was time to go to shore for dinner.
Nancy, Don, Shoshana, and Me at the Blue Shrimp |
We landed the dinghy without too much trouble, although the
spot we had chosen turned out to be a bit rocky and we had to watch our steps
wading ashore. We took a recommendation
from some people we met on the beach and went to eat at the Blue Shrimp. The restaurant was very high end. Margaritas were about two-and-a-half times as
much as at other places, although they were concocted with Don Julio tequila
and served in hand blown glasses. The
food was equally pricey, but very delicious and beautifully presented. We had a very leisurely and enjoyable meal,
but the bill was an extravagant 3200 pesos (almost half a month’s rent for my
house.)
Comet's Dinghy on Shore at Punta de Mita |
Launching the dinghy through the surf was a bit of a
challenge. We had quite an audience from
the restaurant. I lost my flip flop when
I jumped in, had to go back for it, and ended up sprawled across Shoshana,
laughing so hard that I was helpless to right myself. We were half way back to the boat before I
regained control enough to sit upright.
March 21, 2018
Nancy on the SUP |
We spent a somewhat rolly night at anchor, but still managed
to get enough sleep. I got up and
decided to go for a swim. I carefully
took off my glasses, but when I dove into the water, I felt something hit my
foot. I thought it was odd, but figured
it was a fish or a piece of seaweed or something. When I got out of the water and went to get
dressed, I found the chain I use to hold my glasses snagged on the back of my
bathing suit. Apparently, in the close
quarters of Comet’s head, my glasses
had become attached to my bathing suit.
When I dove into the water, they slipped out of their tether. We couldn’t find them anywhere. This was annoying because I had bought that
pair only a few months before to replace another pair I had lost while
white-water rafting. Fortunately, I
still had time to have another pair made before it was time to go home.
Shoshana Kayaking at Punta de Mita |
Punta de Mita - Church on the Right |
We spent the rest of the morning paddle boarding and
kayaking. Then we all went to shore and
took a walk along the beach and through the town of Punta Mita. Behind the fancy hotels, there was a homely
little Mexican town where rooms could be had for as little as 400 pesos per
night. We had seen an odd golden dome
rising from behind the town and someone had told us it was a church. We wanted to see it up close, so we hiked up
to the outskirts of town. It was an
evangelical church called the Light of the World. I had seen other extravagant churches from
this denomination, but this one took the cake.
It looked almost more like a temple to Mithras than a Christian church. It was definitely more attractive from afar.
We didn’t have much wind for the trip home and, without my glasses, I couldn’t
see to drive. We motored straight back
to La Cruz and didn’t see any wind until it came time to dock. We ate chips and guacamole all the way back,
so none of us really wanted dinner. I
went home to practice the guitar and crashed early.
March 22, 2018
Blair on the Foredeck of Scout |
While I was in Punta Mita, I received an invitation to race
the Banderas Bay Regatta aboard Scout, a
Jeanneau 52. Thursday was the first day
of racing. I met some of the other crew
at the bus stop and we took a combi to Nuevo Vallarta where Scout was docked. While I had seen Scout from afar, I had never been aboard before. She was a beauty, spacious, with two wheels
and teak decks. The foredeck was vast.
We left the dock about noon and headed out towards the starting line off the beach in Nuevo Vallarta.
There were some thirty boats divided into seven classes. The Banderas Bay Regatta is billed as a
cruisers' regatta, but there were also classes for pure race boats and a
separate class for multihulls. We were
in class E, a class for heavy cruisers who still intended to fly
spinnakers. Our crew consisted of the
owner, Greg, his crew Tom and Sally (from Australia and England, respectively),
my friend Blair, Mike and Ed (also from La Cruz), and myself. Blair, Mike, and sometimes Ed were the
foredeck crew. Greg mostly drove. Tom trimmed the main. Sally and I manned the jib and/or spinnaker sheets
with part time help from Ed. I was the
timekeeper and eventually the navigator, as we had some trouble remembering the
course until I finally wrote it all down and took responsibility for getting us
around the marks.
Greg and Sally in the Cockpit of Scout |
We had never sailed together as a team before and the first
day saw some confusion. The course involved lots of raising and dousing the spinnaker and we had some
trouble coordinating that with furling and unfurling the jib, which took three
people when it was full of wind. Fortunately,
there were electric winches. They were slow
but made it possible to trim the sail without immense strength. I had never raced on a boat with roller
furling before, so it had never occurred to me how much of a pain it would be
to furl the headsail on a 52 foot boat when it was under load. Once, we put the spinnaker in the water. We had a lot of trouble with the sock
sticking and failing to douse the spinnaker when we needed to do so. We made three messy mark roundings and,
though we recovered well, that cost us time.
There were four boats registered in our class, but one
failed to receive needed parts in time and never made it to the
racecourse. Greg had been battling the
other two boats, Hey Ya and Talion for years and was convinced that
the ratings were rigged against him. He
was disappointed, but not surprised, when we came in third. We were first to finish, but owed Talion almost a minute a mile and Hey Ya not much less. They beat us handily.
Mike and Blair at El Coleguita |
Despite losing, we were all in high spirits upon our
return. It had been a fun day of sailing
and Greg had an easygoing style of skippering.
I had suggested we go to El Coleguita for dinner, so we put the boat
away, cleaned up, and piled in a taxi for the short ride over there. None of the crew was familiar with El
Coleguita and they were all impressed with the good food, generous portions,
giant margaritas, and low prices. Some of
the crew took advantage of the free shots of tequila provided with each
meal. There was live music and a party
atmosphere. We were the only gringos in
the restaurant. After dinner, Blair, Mike,
and I walked a few blocks to the other side of the highway and caught a combi
back to La Cruz.
March 23, 2018
Spinnaker with Sock Hung out to Dry |
I met Blair, Mike, and Ed at the bus stop at 10 AM and we
took a combi to the Sam’s Club in Nuevo Vallarta and then transferred to
another one to get to Paradise Village where the boat was docked. The combis headed for Paradise Village were
crowded with hotel employees going to work and we didn’t all fit on one. Mike got separated and his bus must have gone
the long way because it took him forever to arrive.
The Foredeck Crew - Ed, Mike, and Blair |
Once again, we left the dock about noon. There was a bit more wind than the day before
and everyone now knew his or her job. We
had mastered the spinnaker sock (pulling down on the middle of
the foot prevented it from bunching up and jamming) and perfected the outside
gybe. We got off to a good start and
stayed out in front the whole way. With
the additional wind, Scout’s weight
became an advantage, as we could carry full sail without rounding up. We sailed a clean race and beat Hey Ya handily. Talion beat
us by a few minutes, but not by nearly as much as the day before. We started to suspect that maybe the ratings
weren’t as rigged as Greg thought they were.
La Patrona in Her New Costume |
I had plans to meet Don, Nancy, and Shoshana for dinner at
La Cava, so I left shortly after we finished putting away the boat. I took combis back to La Cruz and had just
enough time to change clothes and get down to the restaurant in time for the La
Patrona show. The show had evolved quite
a bit from the previous year. While
Marisa’s husband (guitar) and brother-in-law(?) son(?) (accordion and keyboard)
used to just stand in the back and play, they were now much more animated and
involved. Her husband even sang a couple
of songs and the younger man strolled through the audience with his
accordion. At the break, Marisa changed from her
Mariachi style costume to one of the long, flowing dresses used in Mexican folk
dances. She didn’t have enough room to
dance much in the restaurant, but we got the idea. Nancy and Shoshana enjoyed the show and their
dinners.
Soul Trip was playing at Ana Banana’s, so we ambled over
there after dinner and enjoyed the second half of their show. It was late by the time I got home and I had
been working hard for two days. I slept
like a rock.
March 24, 2018
Scout at Paradise Village |
We got away from the dock earlier on Saturday and sailed
about near the starting line, estimating the wind direction and time to reach
the line. Once again, we got off to a
good start, pulled away from the other boats, and stayed clear ahead. We were
three minutes ahead at the first mark and six minutes ahead at the second. The wind was strong and Hey Ya kept rounding up. We
sailed another clean race and, at the fourth mark, we were so far ahead that we
couldn’t really tell which boat was rounding the mark when, but we were sure
that we had beat Hey Ya and began to
hope that we might beat Talion, too,
although we owed them almost fifteen minutes.
We would have to wait for the race committee to post results to be sure.
The Scout Crew Minus Ed |
What we could be sure of, however, was that we had beaten Hey Ya and secured second place for the
regatta overall. Greg was pleased and
there was a happy atmosphere on Scout as
we returned to Paradise Village. We had
a celebratory beer, put the boat away, and headed off to the showers. Paradise Village had granted the racers
access to their hospitality suite. The
guys raved about the amenities there, so I tagged along. The women’s side is usually much emptier at
sailing events, but I found the women’s showers dirty and devoid of shampoo,
etc. I would have been better off
staying at the yacht club. Still, I
managed to get cleaned up and put on my new race shirt so that our crew (except
Blair) could all match for our photos.
Sally, Blair, Mike, and Tom at the Beach Party |
There was a party on the beach to award trophies. The view was exceptional as the sun
set. There was a lavish buffet with an
Italian theme and mountains of pastries for dessert. We ate and greeted friends from other boats,
cheering when they received awards. Greg
received a nice bamboo cutting board etched with the race information as a trophy.
Gypsy Rumba was playing, but the only
member of the band I recognized was Cheko.
We danced a little, but all were eager to return to the boat to check
the race results and see if we had beat Talion
in the last race.
We returned to Scout and
Greg went below to check his laptop for the results. He was solemn when he came topside and announced
that there had been a difference of only 2 minutes and 43 seconds in our times …
in our favor! We all went wild. We broke out a bottle of Damiano and toasted
our win. Poor Greg had to admit that he
no longer had a case for adjusting his rating.
He had finally beaten Talion.
March 25, 2018
Sunday was Nancy and Shoshana’s last day. While I really didn’t feel like doing
anything at all, I got up and met them at the market for breakfast. Nancy and Shoshana had empanadas for breakfast
and browsed through the craft stalls. Shoshana
debated whether or not to buy a Frida Kahlo collar for her dog, Sadie. It was cooler than usual, so I didn’t get my
usual cucumber juice. Don got a sausage
sandwich and we sat on the wall, listening to the band. I chatted with some friends who were
returning to Canada. The end of March
was always a sad time in La Cruz as many friends returned home at that time and
left those of us who remained feeling bereft and deserted. Bands broke up for the summer and the
remaining players struggled to fill positions and soldier on for another month
or so until no one was left to listen and the restaurants returned to summer
hours or closed entirely. La Cruz
hibernated during the summer when even many permanent residents fled to cooler
climes.
We left the main market and checked out the stalls in the
plaza before returning to the boat to collect Nancy and Shoshana’s
luggage. Their taxi arrived about noon
and we put them aboard and waved goodbye.
Don and I looked at each other and agreed that it was time to go home
and take naps. We had had a busy week. I briefly considered stopping at the Green Tomate
but didn’t think I could stay awake long enough to finish a drink. I went home and spent a very quiet evening
playing solitaire and texting with friends.
I didn’t even have enough energy to play the guitar.