SICILY: MESSINA, TAORMINA, AND SIRACUSA

Dec. 4, 2024
B&B Movie Dream, Messina, Italy

Ferry to Sicily

I had finally acquired decaf instant coffee and a small bottle of cream, so I made myself a nice big cup of coffee and ate breakfast in my room. I don't normally drink coffee, so I wondered why being denied the occasional latte had brought on such a craving for American style coffee.

I was packed and ready to go by 10:00. I wheeled my new suitcase a kilometer or so to the Reggio Calabria Centrale Station. When I had checked the time table the day before, there was reputed to be a train at noon but, when I went to buy a ticket, there wasn't one until 13:58. When I actually bought the ticket, what I got was a voucher for any train to Villa San Giovanni (where the ferries depart) and a seat on a train to Messina at 14:25. If I had known how this was all going to work out, I would have just taken a ferry. Faced with a four hour wait, I decided to break it up by taking the 11:18 train to Villa San Giovanni.

The train to San Giovanni was a local commuter train that only served the Reggio Calabria area. It made many stops, but it only took half an hour to get to Villa San Giovanni. Since the platform for my train wasn't announced until about half an hour before it left, I sat on a bench outside the ferry terminal and watched the ferries and two tuxedo kittens who begged for food. The sun was out and it was quite warm. Even when it had rained the day before, I really noticed the difference in the temperature. It was ten or fifteen degrees warmer than it had been for the past couple of weeks.

Train Loading Onto the Ferry

When my train finally arrived, it was nearly empty, although one of the three people in my car was sitting in my designated seat. I just took another. There were plenty. The train backed out of the station and then reversed direction and loaded itself onto a train ferry. I had expected to be able to see out during the crossing, but we were in the belly of the ship and couldn't see anything. The whole ride took about an hour. Then we rolled into the Messina Centrale station and I disembarked. I didn't realize that the train station was adjacent to the ferry terminal. My hotel was equally close to both, as it turned out.

High-Tech QR Code Scanner Lock

The B&B was in a residential building close to the port. It was a completely automated arrangement. The operator sent me a QR code which was scanned at the door of the building, again at the entrance to the B&B, and again at the door to my room. The room was modern and had good heating and a space age bathroom. Everything was very comfortable. I watched a movie in Italian on Netflix and then went out to find dinner. I had feared that the neighborhood near the station might be dodgy, but it actually seemed fairly nice. It was a short walk to the downtown area. I grabbed some chicken nuggets for dinner and then stopped at a grocery store for some small boxes of milk for making coffee. I finally got to see some Christmas lights illuminated. It was very festive. Then I went back to my room to read and write.

Dec. 5, 2024
B&B Movie Dream, Messina, Italy

Original 16th Century Portal at the University

My room was so dark that I slept until 8:10. I got up, dressed, and made myself a cup of coffee. My weather app said there was 100% chance of rain, but it wasn't raining. I decided to go out and see as much as I could before it started to pour. I knew I needed to be at the cathedral at noon to witness the clockwork bell tower's daily show, so I decided to start by climbing up the hill to the castle. I walked past the impressive court house and the university. The University in Messina was founded by the Jesuits in 1548. The University was destroyed in the 1908 earthquake, but one portal was reconstructed and incorporated into the current building. 

 

Locked Gate

Google Maps sent me on a wild goose chase as I tried to find the

Google Said, "Go Straight"

castle. First, it told me to go straight where there was nothing but a cliff. Then, it told me to take a long staircase that, after I climbed nearly to the top, led to a locked gate. Eventually, relying on my own sense of direction, I climbed another very long staircase and finally made it to the top of the hill. The castle turned out to be a non-event. It was closed and looked abandoned. The view from up there, however, was worth the climb.

View from the Top of the Stairs

Unimpressive Castle in Messina

Google then tried to take me back down the locked stairway, so I charted my own route back down the hill, arriving at the cathedral square about 11:40. Several school groups were standing around, waiting for the clock tower to do their thing. I grabbed a seat on a bench and waited. Despite the forecast and threatening clouds, it had yet to rain. Every 15 minutes, a bell would ring and a figure on the lower level of the tower would advance one position. The main show began at noon. A clockwork figure appeared to ring the bell. Then the lion at the top of the tower roared and waved a flag. Next, the rooster on the next level down crowed and flapped its wings. “Ave Maria” began to play and a model of the Montalto Sanctuary rose out of some faux dirt (or maybe clouds.) Then a parade of clockwork saints marched around their circular path. It was certainly unique.

The Messina Cathedral

 

Earlier Portal Used in Rebuilt Cathedral

Astronomical Clock

The first cathedral on that site dated back to the 11th century. Earthquakes had destroyed the cathedral in 1783, 1894, and 1908. The current cathedral, rebuilt after the 1908 earthquake and bombing during WWII, incorporates some surviving elements, most notably the ornate portal. The bell tower was built between 1930 and 1933 in a style replicating the tower built in 1564 that had collapsed in 1858. The archbishop at the time, Angelo Paino, insisted on the inclusion of an astronomical clock, which exhibits a calendar and phases of the moon, as well as operating the animated figures and sound effects.

Orione Fountain

The Fontana di Orione in the cathedral square dates back to 1547 and is the finest fountain from 16th century Sicily. GA Montorsoli designed that fountain and also the fountain of Neptune that I unfortunately missed. I wanted to visit the interior of the cathedral, but didn't want to do so with hordes of noisy teenagers. I decided to climb up to the Santuario Montalto and let the crowd who had gathered for the noon show play through. At the base of the stairs that led to the church was another notable fountain, the Fontana Falconieri. This fountain had originally been designed in 1842 as an ephemeral ornament for the 18th centenary of the Virgin of the Letter. People liked it so much that it was recreated in marble and installed in the center of a roundabout. Somehow, it survived the 1908 earthquake and, after some years in safe keeping, it was reinstalled in its original location.

Falconieri Fountain

 

The Fontana Falconieri After the 1908 Earthquake

Montalto Sanctuary

View from Santuario Montalto

Votive Temple of Christ the King

Stairway to the Santuario Montalto

I climbed the hill for the third time. The stairway to the church was decorated with fiberglass birds that had been painted by various artists. The Virgin of the Letter had appeared on that hill and more miraculous events were attributed to her. The shrine, like the cathedral, had been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times. The architecture of the facade didn't really match that of the sides. Unfortunately, the church was closed, so I didn't get to see the inside. I did get to enjoy the view of Messina and of the Tempio Votivo di Cristo Rey.

Messina Cathedral Interior

By the time I got back to the cathedral, it was closed. Since it wouldn't open until 16:00, I decided to eat lunch. I found a restaurant with indoor seating and enjoyed some spaghetti carbonara. Then I walked back along the waterfront to my hotel and read for a couple of hours until it was time to go back to the cathedral. I arrived there shortly after it opened again. At that hour, it was deserted and very dark. I was impressed with the amount of detail that went into the 20th century reconstruction, although the usual side chapels were absent. I'm not certain of its religious significance, but there was a sort of diorama featuring figurines that reminded me of those I'd seen in the homes of elderly Italians. The detail was impressive. I had a conference call at 17:00, so quickly returned to my room and settled in for the evening.

Messina Cathedral Diorama

Dec. 7, 2024
Pascia Cappuccini, Taormina, Italy

I left my lodging in Messina at the 10:00 check-out time and rolled my bag over to the train station. I probably could have made the 10:25 train, but I was in no hurry, so I bought a ticket for the 11:05. That gave me time to enjoy coffee and a muffin at the station cafeteria. Italians seem to think it is perfectly okay to holler into their cell phones in public places and this was my day to be subjected to that. One woman disturbed my entire breakfast and my seat mate on the train talked all the way to Taormina. The sun had come out and it was a beautiful train ride along the coast. I tried my best to enjoy it despite the loud conversation. When you travel by yourself, you get used to quiet.

The Taormina-Giardini Train Station

The Taormina-Giardini train station is at the bottom of the mountain on which Taormina perches. It was easily the most scenic train station in my experience. There were five or six of us waiting for the bus to take us to the town and everyone was getting concerned when a couple of scheduled buses failed to arrive. One did eventually show up (winter schedule, I guess) and for the fare of 1.50 euros drove us up the mountain to the bus station. I actually rode for free because I had tried to buy a ticket on the bus and the ticket machine didn't have a connection. The bus had room for suitcases underneath.

My Lunch

I got to town a couple of hours before my scheduled check-in time, so I parked in a restaurant on the main street and stuffed myself on bruschetta and a pistacchio and cheese stuffed arancino (breaded and fried rice ball.) I had been watching people drink Campari spritzers for five plus weeks and, as the day was finally warm enough to tolerate an iced drink, I finally ordered one. It was refreshing, but rather bitter and wasn't going to become a new favorite. It was, however, very attractive looking and I felt quite stylish.

After lunch, I dragged my bag up the hill to the guest house. The road was steep and narrow, but it wasn't as far as I expected and I arrived a few minutes early. The house cleaner let me in, but I had to wait a few minutes for the owner to arrive and check me in. They were very helpful and made sure I had everything I needed. I was glad the process was quick because the sun was out and I wanted to get to the beach while the weather was good.

My Fabulous Flat in Taormina

 

The Odeon in Taormina

The Porta Messina

 

The Funicular to the Beach

I hurried down the hill, passing the Greek Odeon, the Church of Santa Caterina, and the Porta Messina on the way to the funicular station. I took the cable car down the hill, flying over the soccer field. The station at the bottom was at the level of the road and there was still a long staircase down to the beach. I climbed down to the first beach, which wasn't very big. Everything along the shore was closed. I then climbed back up and walked further down the road to the stairway that led to Isola Bella. Isola Bella is an island just off the coast that is linked to the shore by a sand spit. At low tide, you can walk across. I, of course, arrived at high tide, so I never got to explore the island.

The Beach at Taormina

 

Beautiful Island

Stairs to the Road

King Ferdinand I of Bourbon had given the island to the town at the beginning of the 19th century, but Florence Trevelyan (a granddaughter of Queen Victoria who was married to the mayor of Taormina) bought it in 1890 and built a house there and introduced some exotic plants. It changed hands a couple of times in the 20th century before being acquired by the region of Sicily in 1990. It is now a nature reserve.

Back when I was in Turkey in 2000, I was struck with how blue the Mediterranean seemed. It always looked like someone had dumped blue food coloring into it. This water was no different. I finally learned that the Med doesn't have enough nutrients in it to support algae, which explains why it doesn't have a greenish cast to it. I sat on the beach and enjoyed the scenery, intending to remain until the sun went down. Clouds started rolling in, however, and a cold wind came with them. By 16:00, I was ready to head back up the hill.

 

Christmas Lights in Taormina

The Christmas lights were on by the time I got back to the level of the town and I enjoyed them on my walk home. Taormina felt very safe and inviting and I might have strolled around if it hadn't been so cold. I went back to my flat, made tea, and enjoyed the view of the lights spread out below me. The TV in my flat allowed me to connect to my Netflix account so, for the first time this trip, I played hooky from writing and binged episodes of  The Empress .

The Lights of Taormina

 

Stairs to Castelmola

Castelmola from Afar

The Madonna of the Staircase

My room was very comfortable, and I slept well. I had a leisurely morning and set off to explore around 10:00. While it was cool, I decided to climb up to Castelmola, a small village clustered around the ruins of a castle on the highest peak above Taormina. It was 1.7 kilometers to the top, nearly all of it stairs. The stairs grew longer and more overgrown as I climbed. I never saw another person until I got to the top serviced by cars and buses. There was an icon of the madonna tucked into a cave that was hewn out of the mountain to protect it when the SP10 highway was constructed and allowed people to drive there. There was an elevator from the parking lot to the top of the castle, but it was out of service. Having already come 97% of the way, I climbed the remaining stairs to the top of the castle. There wasn't much left of it and the village hemmed it in wherever there wasn't a sheer drop. The view was inspiring, especially in the direction of Mt. Etna. The mountain was shrouded in clouds, as it had been for days. I had been very lucky to glimpse it on my walk around Reggio Calabria.

The Remains of the Castle

After leaving the castle, I explored the quaint village and stopped into the church of San Nicolo di Bari. The church, built in 1934, faced Mt. Etna. A narrow belvedere separated the main portal from a sheer drop-off, making it impossible to photograph the church without a drone. From there, I could look across to the Castello Saraceno on a lower outcropping and decided that would be my next destination.

Saint Nicholas of Bari

San Nicolo di Bari Interior

 

Castelmola Alley

Castelmola Surrounds the Castle

Road to Castello Saracena

I retraced my steps down the stairs to the saddle between the two peaks and then climbed up the hill known as Monte Tauro. It was this mountain that gave Taormina its name. Tauromenion, as it was originally called, was the first Greek colony in Sicily, although the city existed even before that, having been founded in the 4th century BC by the Sikels.

 

Sanctuary of the Madonna della Rocca

At the base of the outcropping on which the castle stands, was the Santuario Madonna della Rocca. This was a simple little church built around an existing cave. The low ceiling of the cave was visible in much of the church. The courtyard in front of the church offered an excellent view of the Greek theater. I climbed up another long staircase and paid 10 euros to enter the castle. There wasn't much there, but they did provide an interesting

View of the Greek Theater

audioguide with admission. The castle had been occupied by Arabs after they threw out the Greeks, which explained the Saracen name. There was a great view from the top, but it started to sprinkle and I didn't want to climb down slippery, wet stairs, so I made my exit and started down to the town.

The Castle Grounds

Piazza 9 Aprile in Taormina

The Taormina Cathedral

Taormina Cathedral Interior

Navigating with the paper map provided by my host, I followed his walking tour down many more stairs to the Piazza 9 Aprile. The cathedral fronted onto the piazza and everything was decorated for Christmas. I ducked into a restaurant to escape the rain. I had been craving eggs, since no restaurants served anything for breakfast other than coffee and pastry. I ordered a cheese omelette for lunch which came with a lovely, big salad. By the time I was done eating, it had stopped raining. I popped into the rather unimpressive cathedral and then made my way down the main shopping street and around the corner to the Greek Theater. The entrance fee for the theater was 12 euros, so I decided to pass. I probably should have skipped the castle and seen the theater, but I've seen a lot of theaters and had gotten a pretty good view of it from above. I worked my way home, stopping to buy a small bottle of Finochette (a Finocchio liqueur suggested by a friend) and visit the Roman baths, where I started a colony of feral cats. It was getting chilly, so I returned to my flat for a nap.

Dec. 8, 2024

Tyche, Syracuse, Sicily

Dawn in Taormina

It was tempting to remain in Taormina, but I was facing an impending laundry crisis and needed to get to the apartment I had rented in Siracusa that had a washing machine. I trundled my belongings down the hill to the bus station and bought a ticket. The 10:45 bus was delayed because a marathon in Catania had blocked the road. The ticket agent promised the bus would arrive at 11:00. It didn't leave until 11:20. My train to Siracusa left at 11:37. I dashed off the bus as soon as it stopped and rushed across the street to buy a train ticket. Fortunately, I remembered which part of the station was operating (not where we were let off.) Also fortunately, the train left from the platform beside the station. I made it to the train. The other passengers on the bus did not.

It was a two-hour ride from Taormina to Siracusa. We passed through Catania on the way. I have no idea why I planned to go to Siracusa before Catania, but I had already booked accommodations, so it was too late to change my mind. It was no big loss, since the train ticket was only 11.40 euros, anyway. We rode along the coast and then turned inland through olive and orange groves. Nearing Siracusa, we passed through wetlands and what looked like oil refineries.

Construction in Front of My Apartment

It was cold and windy in Siracusa. The neighborhood around the station was a little run down and felt deserted. I had about a kilometer to walk to my apartment. The neighborhood gradually improved as I walked. I had to wait about 20 minutes for someone to come and let me in. The apartment did not face the street and turned out to face the marina. It would have been beautiful except for the roadwork that separated the building from the water. The area was impassable.

My first mission was to get the laundry done, but the washing machine refused to turn on. I did one load by hand, but still had two loads of heavy stuff to do. The landlady and I tried to figure it out over WhatsApp, to no avail. She was at work. It would have to wait for the next day.

Temple of Apollo in Ortigia

By that time, it was 15:45 and I was starving. I set out to find food. The landlady had suggested a nearby bar that might be open. All the restaurants were closed on Sunday. Even the grocery store was closed. The bar didn't have much, but I managed to get a little pizzetta. Then I decided to walk across the bridge to Ortigia to wait for the Christmas lights to come on. I got as far as the Temple of Apollo before it started to rain. Not planning to wander around when I left the house, I had neither raincoat nor umbrella. I needed a new umbrella, anyway, so I bought an umbrella and a bag of almonds at a convenience store and walked back to the apartment.

Dec. 9, 2024
Tyche, Syracuse, Sicily

Sunrise Over the Marina in Syracuse

I woke up early enough to see the sun rise over Ortigia. I needed to get started on the laundry or it wouldn't be dry before it was time to leave Siracusa. The items that I had washed the night before were still wet. I did another load and hung the pants in the shower to drain until they stopped dripping. I ate breakfast and it was almost 11:00 before I left the apartment.

The sun was out and it wasn't too cold. I set out for the center of Siracusa. I could see the conical roof of the Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime. It looked like a giant Christmas tree or maybe a spaceship. I picked my way across town until I found the sprawling complex. The interior may have seated more people than the original 7th century cathedral built upon a 6th century BC temple of Athena, but it looked more like an airport than a church. It didn't take long to visit.

Basilica Sanctuary Madonna delle Lacrime

Basilica Interior

Monument to the Fallen in Africa

I crossed the nicely landscaped church grounds to the Archaeological Museum, but decided to leave that for later if I ran out of things to do. North of downtown, a series of limestone outcroppings rise above the city. For centuries, these rocks served as quarries for the stone used to build the town. The greater town is a patchwork of green spaces surrounding these quarries and the ruins of some of the works they supplied. I walked uphill and followed the edge of one of these parks to the Church of the Cappuccini. Before I could visit the church, I was distracted by the view and crossed the road to where a nice park surrounded a monument to the soldiers killed in Africa during WWII. The monument was impressive, but the view of the coast from there was sublime. The water was crystal clear and you could see the island of Ortigia to the south.

View Towards Ortigia

Church of the Cappuccini

Church Interior

Nativity Scene in the Church of the Cappuccini

I finally stopped into the Church of the Cappuccini when I got tired of looking at the view and basking in the sun. The interior was more impressive than the nondescript exterior. I especially liked the chapel decorated with a nativity scene and strung with lights like stars. From the church, I walked along the edge of the impressively deep Quarry of the Cappuccini, past the modern stadium, and over to the Archaeological Park.

Quarry of the Cappuccini

Roman Amphitheatre 

Eros Blindfolded by Igor Mitoraj

The Archaeological Park was really a wonder and I was so glad that I had decided to visit it instead of the museum. For 16.50 euros, I got to see a lot. I started with a visit to the Roman Amphitheater. It was a mystery to me why the Romans built an amphitheater when the Greeks had already built a much larger one nearby. Installed around the entire park were sculptures by the Polish artist, Igor Mitoraj. The sculptures had been created over decades and appeared to be site specific. The artist died in 2014 and a major retrospective of his work is planned for 2025 in Siracusa. Many of his sculptures related to the mythological Icarus, whose wings made with wax melted when he flew too close to the sun. Some of the sculptures impressed me more than others. The 10 meter tall torso installed in one of the quarry caves was monumental.

Croce Torso by Mitoraj

The Altar of Ierone

After the amphitheater, I passed the Altar of Ierone, the largest altar of the Greek world, and then wandered through the Carved Quarry and the Paradise Quarry. Originally a prison where slaves carved out blocks of stone, the Paradise Quarry was later converted to a garden and planted with orange and lemon trees. The manmade caves resulting from the quarrying activity were impressive and made more so by the addition of sculptures. The Ear of Dionysus, was a sort of spiral cave which amplified sounds. I couldn't resist hooting a few times when I reached the back of it.

The Carved Quarry

More Mitoraj Sculptures in the Quarry

Manmade Quarry Caves

You Can See Where Blocks Were Cut

 

The Greek Theater at Syracuse

Finally, I reached the Greek theater. Built in the 5th century BC, it is still used for special events. Much of it was roped off due to reduced staffing in the park during the winter, so we were limited to climbing up to the top and strolling along the rim. The theater was built into a hillside. Along the top edge, there were caves carved into the hill that may have been tombs, but made me imagine vendors selling food and drink during performances. An aquaduct brings water to the top of the theater. This allowed for some water mills in the caves. The Miller's Cottage situated above the caves remains.

Aquaduct at the Top of the Greek Theater

 

Tombs or Concession Stands?

  

The Miller's Cottage

By the time I finished exploring the ruins, it was 14:30 and I was hungry. Of course, nothing is open at that hour, so I followed a sign to the McDonald's. I got my late lunch, but found myself a mile outside of town. It was a long walk back through big box stores and industrial parks. I stumbled across the ruins of a small Roman theater on my way. The Spanish King Carlos V had looted the theaters for building materials when he fortified Ortigia.

Extravagant Christmas Lights in Syracuse

I reached the grocery store near my apartment at 15:45 and, of course, it was closed. Having walked over 8.5 miles, I was tired and weary. I went home, rested for a bit, and did the last of my laundry. When it got dark at 17:30, I went out to the grocery store and enjoyed the Christmas lights. Then I came back, hard boiled some eggs for the morning, and prepared some tortellini with pesto for dinner. Then I sat down to write.

Dec. 10, 2024
Tyche, Syracuse, Sicily

I awoke to another stunning sunrise over Ortigia. By 9:30, I was out the door and heading to the island of Ortigia. It was a short walk over the bridge. I came first to the temple of Apollo, discovered in 1860 within an old Spanish barracks. Built in the 6th century BC, it is the oldest temple in what was Greek speaking southern Italy. I then followed the extravagant arches of Christmas lights to the Piazza Archimede. In the center of the piazza is an impressive fountain depicting Diana saving the water nymph Arethusa from her stalker, Alpheus. Imagery from this myth recurred all over the island of Ortigia.

Fountain in the Piazza Archimede

I continued through Ortigia's baroque sandstone buildings, heading to the Piazza Duomo. Along the way, I spied a gentleman sipping what appeared to be a latte. I didn't need more coffee, but I had been craving a latte for over a month. I sat at the bar and enjoyed my little latte. Then I continued on to the expansive Piazza Duomo. I tried to visit the church, but a service was being held. Instead, I ducked into the smaller Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. The interior was restrained by baroque standards. The painting of the martyrdom of Santa Lucia by Deodato Guinaccia (1579) had long been hidden behind another painting by Caravaggio. Newly restored, it fairly glowed. The Caravaggio had never been intended for that church. Removed for restoration, it has been relocated to the Church of Santa Lucia al Sepulcro in Siracusa, its intended location. The lovely painted ceiling by Marcello Vierida Siena must be in danger of falling because netting was suspended beneath the entire ceiling, obscuring the artwork. I had to make do with a photograph.

Santa Lucia alla Badia

 

Santa Lucia Interior

The Martyrdom of Santa Lucia

Deciding to leave the cathedral for later, I headed to the waterfront and strolled along the shore to the fountain of Arethusa. A freshwater spring bubbles up beneath the sea at this location and it is the origin of the myth of Arethusa who escaped the river god Alpheus' advances by turning into the spring and escaping into the sea. The fountain is planted with papyrus and inhabited by a flock of snow white ducks. Like Reggio Calabria, the malecon in Ortigia is planted with giant ficus trees, giving it a tropical flair.

The Fountain of Arethusa

Giant Ficus Trees

 

The Port of Syracuse

Great Ikaria

I backtracked along the waterfront towards Siracusa because I wanted to check out the port. Then I turned around and made my way back along the edge of the island to the Castello Maniace via a different route. The castle sits on a long finger of land jutting into the sea at the end of the island. In front of it stretches a vast, open yard. Igor Mitoraj's Ikaria Grande sits on a plinth at the edge of the sea. While Ikaria is supposed to be female and represents women's struggles to be free of what restrains them, the model for the statue must have been male. She has no womanly curves.

 

The Castello Maniace

The castle has been Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Norman, occupied by Frederick II of Swabia, and then Aragonese and Spanish. It has been remodeled many times. The battlement that juts into the sea contains eighteen gun ports. There might once have 

Gun Ports in the Castle

been nineteen, but one of the arches was bricked up. The castle itself was square and had lofty vaulted ceilings which had been restored using black bricks to distinguish the restorations from the remaining original vaults. There was a small museum on the way to the ticket window and I found the 16th century hand grenades more interesting than more Greek and Roman pottery. The coat of arms over the entrance dates to the occupation of Charles V of Spain in the 16th century. After touring the castle, I sat in the yard and ate the sandwich I had brought with me. The sun kept going behind clouds and the temperature rose and fell and the sun came and went. I decided to make my way towards home in case it rained.

Castle Interior

16th Century Hand Grenades

I started back up the other side of the island, passing a couple of tiny beaches where a few brave souls were thinking about swimming. The water was amazingly clear. I could see fish swimming below me. I checked out the Palazzo Bellomo, the regional art museum, but decided not to pay the 9 euro entry fee. Instead, I returned to the Piazza Duomo and gave a couple of euros to the accordion player who had been on station since I passed that morning. 

 

Silver Santa Lucia

I entered the cathedral. The chapel of Santa Lucia, an early Christian who was martyred in the 4th century, displays a statue of the saint fashioned in the 16th century from 190 pounds of silver. I wasn't supposed to take a picture of the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, but I cheated and stood just outside to snap a shot. It was too beautiful to miss. The Altare della Carita was another beautiful chapel with ornate inland marble tombs on the floor. The high altar was a mass of baroque gold and white surrounding a painting that badly needed cleaning. Most interesting about the cathedral is the fact that it was originally a Greek temple that was converted into a church in the 6th century. Twelve Doric columns are embedded in the Norman walls. The original Norman facade was destroyed in the earthquake of 1693 that also destroyed the cathedral in Messina. The current baroque facade replaced it subsequently.

Syracuse Cathedral

Doric Columns in the Cathedral

Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament

I took the second bridge back to Syracuse and walked home a different way. The failure of the washing machine in my apartment had required me to wash three (Italian) loads of laundry by hand. I wrung the clothes out as best I could, but they were wetter than they would have been had they spun. I began to worry they wouldn't dry before I left. I dragged the whole drying rack downstairs and put it outside in the sun. The wind tipped it over a couple of times before I got it situated on the cobblestones. The clothes never did dry and I ended up having to blow dry them enough that I thought they might be dry by morning. I spent the rest of the afternoon working on my blog.

My Clothes Drying on the Street