Saturday, April 18, 2020

QUARANTINE BEGINS TO SINK IN


March 23 - 24, 2020

Empty Pickleball Courts
Monday morning, I went for my walk in the marina, as usual. The charter boats were all sitting empty in the marina. No one was unloading food and ice as I passed by. It was strangely quiet. The Sea Shepherd boat, Brigitte Bardot, was tied up in the marina until the stay at home order was lifted. The pickleball courts were empty and the fish market was quiet.

The Excursion Boats Were All Quiet
The Brigitte Bardot


Empty Fish Market

Empty Plaza
Empty Highway











I walked home through town. A stay at home order had been issued and the beaches were closed. There were no taxis at the marina taxi stand and the plaza was empty. There was so little traffic on the highway that I was able to stop in the middle to take a photograph.

Wrapped Baked Goods
Later, I went into Bucerias to go to Chedraui for groceries. Shelves were still stocked, but all the bulk foods were then packaged in containers and the bakery goods were either wrapped or under covers. The salad bar was empty. An employee was stationed at the doors with hand sanitizer and was wiping down the carts and baskets. I bought a bag of cat food to bring to the feral cats in the marina, hoping to befriend them. I longed for a pet to keep me company.

Road Through the Hills
Tuesday, I went for a run up the road leading into the hills behind La Cruz. After passing through the colonia, the road continued through pastures where cows grazed and then climbed up into the jungle. There weren't many expansive views due to the tree cover, but there were lots of colorful flowers.


Morning Glories

Pasture Behind a Gate

















Cherie and John left to sail to points south on Tuesday, leaving me alone in the house. As soon as they left, I began the process of thoroughly cleaning and sanitizing the house. It wasn't so much that I was worried about the virus, but the house hadn't been thoroughly cleaned in over a month and it gave me something to do. It took me three days to thoroughly clean every nook and cranny of the downstairs.

March 25-27, 2020

The Cat Colony on the Breakwater
The feral cats were glad to see me on my morning walk in the marina. Daylight Savings Time was almost upon us and it had become difficult to walk before it got light. Sunrise is a two-part event in La Cruz. The sun rises above the horizon somewhere behind the mountains and stains the sky and/or clouds with color. An hour or so later, the sun rises above the mountains and bursts across the water in second colorful show. Dawn was may favorite time of day and I hated to miss it.

Sunrise Over the La Cruz Anchorage
I spent the rest of the day practicing the guitar and cleaning the living room. I moved and cleaned behind all the furniture and emptied all the shelves to dust them thoroughly. The house had never been so clean and smelled of Pinesol.

Taking advantage of the empty highway, I ran a few miles up the old road to Punta Mita on Thursday morning. The only vehicles I saw were ATM buses bringing employees to the resorts in Punta Mita. They passed every ten minutes like clockwork. The beaches were deserted. The resorts in La Manzanilla were quiet and the entrances blocked off. No one was getting in.

View Towards Nuevo Vallarta

La Manzanilla Deserted

A Little Jungle Greenery




Entrance Blocked Off





Cheko Ruiz, a local musician whose concerts had all been canceled, live streamed a concert on Thursday night. Two members of his band surprised us by joining him. I watched with a friend back in Alameda while we chatted online. It was almost like we were together.

Sunrise on the Malecon
View Across the Parking Lot











Friday began with another walk in the marina. The carnival rides for Semana Santa were parked on a side street. Someone, at least, still thought that Semana Santa would proceed as normal. I hoped that saner heads would prevail.

Rides for the Semana Santa Carnival

Empty Dock Carts
Many cruisers had returned to their home countries. For the first time ever, I saw a group of empty dock carts sitting beside the entrance to Docks 10 and 11. Even the boat workers seemed to be staying home. By the end of the week, restaurants were no longer allowed to seat customers and food was available for takeout or delivery only. Many closed altogether. La Cruz began to resemble a ghost town.

I decided to use the downtime to paint the wrought iron fence around our house, something I had been meaning to do for years. Fortunately, we lived only a block from the paint store. I went out to buy a gallon of oil based paint and some thinner. The store employees were all wearing masks, the first ones I had seen in La Cruz. There was no fancy, computerized machine to tint the paint. I selected the color green closest to the existing paint and the clerk mixed it quite accurately by hand. I was impressed.

The fence was dirty and I spent the day cleaning it, rather than painting.

March 28 – 29, 2020

B Nayar at Dawn
I was getting sick of staring at the four walls of my house and walking in the marina. Saturday morning, I ran up Highway 200 for a few miles towards Sayulita. I took the opportunity to explore the graveyard that I had previously only seen from the highway. The roadside fruit stands were quiet and there was very little traffic.

The Local Cemetery


Roadside Fruit Stand

Highway to Sayulita
Front Gate Before Paint
The rest of the day was spent practicing the guitar and scrubbing the fence. It was a bigger job than expected.

Sunday being my rest day, I slept in as much as possible. I took a break from the fence and spent the day documenting all the songs I knew well enough to perform. Cheko's live stream had inspired me and I considered doing one of my own. I recorded each song to determine how long they were. It quickly became apparent that it was going to be difficult to whittle them down to a single hour.



Thursday, April 16, 2020

AND THEN EVERYTHING CHANGED


March 16, 2020

TP Clogged the Aisles
The Monday after I returned, I went to Bucerias to go to the gym and found it closed for Benito Juarez' birthday. I needed groceries, anyway, so continued on to the Chedraui to do my shopping. People were already hoarding in the United States and there were shortages of toilet paper and staples there. Everything seemed normal at Chedraui except that the aisles were crowded with pallets of toilet paper purchased in anticipation of hoarding that never happened. The gringos didn't stock up. Most of them just went home. Bucerias was already very quiet.

Hand Sanitizer
Toilet paper and bleach, soap, etc. were available in abundance. The hand sanitizer shelf was empty when I went by, but I later managed to acquire two bottles when they restocked. Of course, there were no sanitizing wipes because there never had been. I bought a package of alcohol free baby wipes and a bottle of alcohol to pour into it. The only thing I wanted that I could not find in the four stores I checked was a face mask. The store clerks all had them, but the businesses must have cleaned out the local supply. Aside from the absence of gringos and masks on the store employees, people were going about their business like normal.

That evening, I went to my salsa dance class. We maintained a social distance and gave up dancing with partners, but still managed to have a good time.


March 17, 2020

Fearing that services might become difficult to obtain, I returned to Bucerias on Tuesday to get my nails done and go to the bank. I went to La Comer to look for masks (no luck), get a coffee, pick up a small container for hand sanitizer, and buy mouse traps. Except for the lack of masks, I felt prepared.

Tuesday night, the order came down that public places like gyms and bars must close. Restaurants were given new rules for operation. Most of the customers were gone, anyway. Those that remained, largely stayed away.  Our Wednesday dance class was canceled.

March 18 - 20, 2020

Morning Malecon
Wednesday, I tried to resume my routine as much as possible by going for a morning walk in the marina. It was quieter than usual, but the regular walkers were all there. I felt a little bit sorry for the feral cats at the marina and wondered if some of their feeders might have abandoned them.
Cat Colony
Dina
Golden Sunrise




A Clear Day in La Cruz














 

I settled into a routine. I got up at 6:00, went for a long run or walk, and then returned to take a shower, listen to the net, and eat a leisurely breakfast. The net became an important source of information as to what directives had been issued in response to the corona virus. After breakfast, I practiced the guitar. I practiced three times a day. With people coming and going from the house, not all of whom were concerned about the quarantine, I mostly stayed in my room. Social media ate up a large part of my day as that became the only social outlet.






March 21 -22, 2020

Road to Matlali Hills
By Saturday, I was bored with running at the marina every day. I decided to explore parts of town I had never seen before. I ran up the highway to the road that led to Matlali Hills and Puerto Bahia. I ran up that nicely landscaped road as far as the gate to the resorts and then cut across to the fields behind my house. It was interesting to see what was back there. I had always been curious.

Running Up the Highway


Sunrise in the Country

Neighborhood Cow








We still had a mouse problem and I declared war. I cleaned out the cabinets so that I could see any new activity and set traps. Saturday night, I caught a mouse. It had somehow managed to get stuck in both the snap trap and the sticky trap. Cherie and I closed the kitchen window until we could repair the screen. Apparently, the mice were living outdoors and only coming in to eat. We never saw another.
Dawn in the Neighborhood

Sunday was my rest day and I slept in. Cherie's boyfriend, John, returned with a friend from his sailing trip and we all went out to
                                                   




dinner at the mostly empty Ballena Blanca. It would be my last restaurant meal for a long time.                                                                                                                                                                                                         

Sunday, April 12, 2020

BLOGGING IN THE TIME OF CORONA VIRUS

At the beginning of this season, I said I would blog if I went anywhere 
Sailing on Dragon's Toy
interesting. Back in January, when I went to La Paz to help Dragon's Toy cross to La Cruz, I sat down on the second day out to write about my travels. I discovered that Windows 365 does not function without Internet. Thus, after writing most of a blog post, I was unable to save it. This put an end to my blogging until COVID-19 forced me to stay home long enough to install OpenOffice.

Back at the beginning of the season, I made a crucial error. I had misplaced my immigration file which contained the directions for renewing my residency. I knew there was a grace period, but had forgotten that this only applied if I was OUTSIDE the country. As it was, I only had five days to appear at immigration once I entered the country. Though I went fairly soon after arriving, I missed the deadline and there was nothing I could do to remedy this situation. I was forced to return to the United States to begin the process of obtaining residency from scratch. At the end of November, I returned to the United States for a week. By January, I was a resident, again.

At the end of January, I flew to La Paz to meet Dragon's Toy. I was supposed to fly to Mexico City and then transfer to a flight to La Paz. The air traffic at the Mexico City airport was so bad that we couldn't land. The plane didn't have enough fuel to circle, so we had to land at Queretaro to refuel. By the time that was done, we had missed my connection to La Paz. I ended up having to spend the night in Mexico City and get up in the middle of the night to make a 6:00 AM flight to La Paz.

Sunset from Marina de La Paz
I spent less than 24 hours in La Paz, and I spent much of that sleeping. We did have time to go to the Mezquite Grill for the world's best filet mignon and I got to play a set at Bob Marlin's.

Approaching Banderas Bay
We left the morning of January 30th for La Cruz. The crossing was quick and uneventful, making nearly seven knots. We made it to Punta de Mita in time for bed on February first. We didn't get any boobies hitchhiking, this time, but we were joined by a moth the size of a swallow.

There was no big rush to get up in the morning. We took our time getting up and sailing on to La Cruz from Punta de Mita. It was good to be home and a relief to know that I had made it in time to start house sitting the next day.

Daisy
Back in 2014-2015, I rented an apartment in the Exotic Point Condominiums in La Cruz. My friend, Charity, rented an apartment there and had asked me to care for her cat and dog while she went to Hawaii to help her elderly father decide where he was going to live in the future.

Cato
She had a mature chihuahua named Daisy and a four-month-old kitten named Cato. Cato was a beautiful seal point Siamese with white feet and blue eyes. He was quite entertaining and sometimes sweet, but he liked to bite and push the potted plants off the shelves. I stayed there for ten days, enjoying the amazing view and hilarious critters. During that time, I got to see the Cheko Ruiz Band at the Bucerias chalk art festival and Geo with the Force of Three and members of Luna Rumba. For a number of reasons, this would not be a great year for live music in La Cruz, at least for me.
Chalk Art Festival

The View from Exotic Point










As soon as my house sitting gig was over, I was forced to return to the United States. The tenant in my rental house had moved out at the end of the year. I was unable to leave at that time because my immigration status was in flux. As soon as I received my new resident card, I made a reservation to return home.

Living Room of My Rental
There was a lot to do to get the place ready to be rented again. I spent three weeks cleaning and painting and then hired a property manager so that I wouldn't need to rush home the next time a tenant moved out.

Roy Rogers
Playing with Janet at the Town House

















Point Lobos


Being back in the States wasn't all bad. I got to play some music and do some hiking. I got to meet, in person, an interesting fellow I had met on Facebook. We went to see Roy Rogers play slide guitar and spent a day hiking at Point Lobos. Matt is a diver and wanted to show me some of his favorite locations near Monterey. I left expecting him to come to Mexico for a visit at the end of March.

I had to hurry back to Mexico because I had plans to attend Guitarfest in Zihuatanejo the second week of March. My friend, Cary, and I were flying down to meet Don and Leslie who had sailed there. Leslie's two cousins were flying in from the UK and a couple of friends were coming down from LA. All of us were staying in AirBnBs in the same complex.

Isla Grande Near Zihuatanejo
After Party










We spent an idyllic week in Zihuatanejo, going to concerts on the beach each night and spending our days relaxing in the shade of palapas and swimming in the sea. It would be the last week of life as we knew it. We heard rumors that large gatherings were due to be canceled and were relieved when we saw them putting out chairs for the closing concert.

Zihuat Dressed for Carnival
Ladies' Luncheon in Playa La Ropa

Zihuatanejo from Playa Las Gatas

The following day, I flew back to Puerta Vallarta. My original flight through Toluca was canceled, but I got another through Mexico City, arriving earlier than I had originally planned. The airport was a bit quiet and a few people sported masks, although few were actually wearing them. I was relieved when I finally arrived in Puerto Vallarta and got a taxi back to La Cruz. The following week would see rapid changes in my lifestyle.