November 13, 2018
I got up early Tuesday morning and went for a run out to
Marina Palmira. I made it four out of
the five plus miles and enjoyed the remaining walk along the Malecon. The wind was still howling, which kept it
nice and cool. The Malecon was crowded
with walkers and joggers. Dogs had been
banned from the Malecon, which was causing a local stir. A protest march was planned for the following
weekend and cruisers were weighing the risk of breaking the law against
non-citizens participating in protests against the value of supporting the
community.
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| The Morning Malecon in La Paz |
I was eager for a nice breakfast out but returned to find
that Harvey had made us all a frittata.
We had a companionable breakfast in the cockpit and listened to the net. We showered and tidied the boat after
breakfast. Some of us caught up on
sleep.
The Ha-Ha crew had planned to stay as far as La Paz with the
promise of a trip to the islands on the way from Cabo. The untimely norther had foiled their plans
and left us pinned down in La Paz. They made the best of it and trooped off to
drink lunch and enjoy the town. I
remained behind to nap and later help Greg rearrange supplies on the boat.
I spent part of the
afternoon practicing the guitar until it was time to go to Harker Boards (a combination SUP shop and bar) for a
surprise birthday party for a fellow cruiser.
The party was on a third-floor roof deck and it was so cold and windy that
the restaurant provided us with blankets.
I bundled up and ordered a glass of red wine. Greg and I split a plate of nachos. It was abnormally cold for Baja.
November 14, 2018
Wednesday morning, Bob, Harvey, Mike, and I walked nearly
seven miles out past marina Palmira and around the point until we could see
Costa Baja before returning to Marina de La Paz. The Ha-Ha crew took off after breakfast and I
stayed behind to keep Greg company and practice the guitar. A project manager stopped by to look at a
little carpentry project that needed doing and I chatted with visitors that
stopped by while Greg was napping. It
was a peaceful afternoon.
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| Gina's Hot Dogs (and Burritos) |
The Ha-Ha crew returned in time for happy hour. Cary and Tom from Dragon’s Toy joined us
for cocktails. They were planning on making
the crossing to La Cruz after Thanksgiving and we discussed the idea of my
joining them for the passage. It was
quite dark by the time the party broke up.
Our entire crew walked the short distance to Gina’s hot dog stand for
burritos. Gina makes a mean burrito for
45 pesos (about $2.25.) It was bedtime
by the time we returned to Scout.
November 15, 2018
I had discovered a CrossFit gym in La Paz and wanted to see
if it was feasible for me to get there in time for a morning class. I got up early and ran the three miles to the
Fonatur Marina where the gym was located.
The gym was actually located in the marina buildings. There was no one to talk to who wasn’t
involved in the workout, but I vowed to return the following week early enough
to arrive for the beginning of the class.
I walked back to Marina La Paz so that I could see how long it took to
make the walk. I wasn’t going to survive
running there and then doing a CrossFit class.
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| Baja Is the Real Southern California |
Bob was making a lovely egg and potato breakfast when I
returned. I had just enough time for a
shower before the food was ready. We had
a leisurely breakfast and then I dropped off my laundry and left for town with
the rest of the crew.
We stopped at the boat broker to look at boats since a few
of us were contemplating buying one.
They didn’t have anything that interested me. Boats seemed to be either too large or too
old. I was somewhat relieved, not being
ready to commit to another boat at that moment.
Next, we walked into town.
Harvey had planned to take a bus to Balandra but decided to eat ceviche
instead. We all went to Harker Boards
and had a beer. Harvey left us at the
Malecon and we headed inland, looking for the post office so Jules could mail
postcards. We accidentally passed
it. By the time we realized we had gone
too far we were almost to my nail salon, so I left the group and went there to
get my nails done. I am a natural nail
biter and the only way I can keep nails for playing the guitar is to coat them with
gel polish. I found it annoying to have
to get my nails serviced every two weeks, but my guitar teacher had stopped
nagging me about my nails and I had to admit that having fingernails did
increase my volume.
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| La Fuente (The Polka Dot Trees) |
I spent a pleasant hour at the nail salon and then walked
across the street to the Ley market to buy bananas and mineral water. By the time I dragged the groceries all the
way back to the boat, it was too late to pick up my laundry. The rest of the crew had returned, also. We had drinks on the boat and chatted with
our boat neighbor, Mike, from Amiga. Then all of us walked into town to the
Mezquite Grill for a fabulous fillet Mignon dinner to wish Bob farewell since he
was leaving the following morning.
Wonderful as our dinner was, we still had room to stop at the Polka Dot
Trees ice cream store. Despite having
shared a fillet with Greg, I had already blown my diet for the day. I had been very good for months, so I
splurged on a cup of ice cream. It was
an ideal evening. By the time we
returned to the boat, I had covered eleven miles and the blister on the bottom
of my left foot had burst.
November 16, 2018
It was sad to say goodbye to Bob but the wind had died down,
the port was open, and we were all excited to get out to the islands. By 9:00, we were pulling away from the dock
and heading out the channel towards Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida. There was wind and we were finally able to
unfurl the sails and turn off the motor.
We had to tack back and forth to get where we were going, but we were in
no hurry. Dragon’s Toy was headed in the same direction and we kept in
contact with them on the radio.
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| Roca Lobos |
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| Dragon's Toy at Anchor |
Harvey made us a nice chicken dinner and we dined in the
cockpit as the anchorage gradually filled with large motor yachts. It was the Friday before a three-day weekend
(Revolution Day) in Mexico and boats filled with wealthy Mexicans outnumbered
the gringo cruisers. Dragon’s Toy and Scout were
the only sailboats. It was noisy with
loud music and screaming children but quieted down fairly early so we were able
to sleep.
November 17, 2018
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| Morning in Ensenada Grande |
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| Ensenada Grande from the Trail |
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| Trail Marker |
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| Wind Patterns on the Water |
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| View from the Top of Partida |
The view off towards Mazatlan from the top was
breathtaking. We could see patterns on
the water formed by the wind currents.
We rested for a few minutes and then picked our way back down to the
anchorage through the rocks and cactus.
Our descent required even more concentration than the climb up. When we returned to the beach, the dinghy was
waiting but there was no sign of Harvey and Cary. They had given up on us and called Greg for a
ride back to the boats.
Many of the motor yachts had departed but a new collection
were arriving, as well as a few additional sailboats. The anchorage was noisy, once again. I took a swim after returning to the boat,
but found it less pleasant than I had predicted while climbing down a rocky
stream bed in blazing sun. Scout was once again in shadow. I dried off, dressed, and we all proceeded to
Dragons’s Toy for sundowners. Dragons’s
Toy was an Island Packet 37 and I was eager to see it since we had more or
less agreed that I would accompany them on the crossing to La Cruz after
Thanksgiving. The boat was sturdy and
well maintained, with a pleasant layout and homey feeling.
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| Scout in Ensenada Grande |
Back aboard Scout,
we abandoned our plan to grill arrachera for dinner and Harvey sautéed the
wahoo in butter and garlic and served it with potatoes that he cooked in the
microwave, smashed, and fried in a hot pan.
While we were dining, a dive boat arrived and dropped anchor right in
the middle of the anchorage. They turned
on bright green lights to attract rays and proceeded to conduct a night dive
surrounded by large motor yachts. They
were quite noisy, but had quieted down and left completely by 22:00.
Not having been able to sleep comfortably in my berth, I
elected to double up the cockpit cushions and sleep outside. It was a beautiful night and I slept slightly
better than I had on the rock-hard cushions in my cabin.
November 18, 2018
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| Raising the Anchor |
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| Ensenada Grande in the Rear View |
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| Marina Palmira from the La Paz Channel |
The first twenty-five Ha-Ha skippers to arrive at the party were to receive two free tickets. Greg, Mike, and I arrived early. We stood in line and chatted with people from other boats until the doors opened. Then we grabbed a table in the shade near the stage. We were eventually joined by Jules and Harvey, Tom and Cary from Dragons’s Toy and a retired couple from L.A. named Nagy and Juliana who had recently moved to La Paz and were looking to meet people. I was at the opposite end of the table with Mike and Greg, but Jules and Harvey really connected with the couple, who invited Harvey and his wife for Thanksgiving dinner.
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