SCOUT RETURNS TO LA CRUZ

February 11-12, 2019

It was good to be back in La Cruz among our friends and familiar pursuits.  I enjoyed the dawn views from the marina and resumed my exercise routine.  I spent my days back at my house, catching up on my blog and practicing the guitar.  It was nice to have my own shower again.

We had tickets to see Tatewari at the Octopus’ Garden on Monday night.  Tom and Cary came with us.  We were all big fans.  The show was amazing, as always, and the band signed the CDs Greg bought. I was sorry that I had already bought the CDs because it would have been nice to get them signed.  I was very happy to have had my CD of the original Luna Rumba signed.  It was wonderful to have recordings of the music from La Cruz to take with me everywhere I went.

Casino Night on Scout

  

Tuesday night, we went for dinner at the Ballena Blanca and then had the crews of Dragon’s Toy and Unleashed over for an evening of Texas Hold ‘Em.  Greg fixed the table in the main salon up like a casino.  We didn’t have any poker chips, so had to use Cary’s laundry quarters.  I lost early, so became the dealer until Tom, too, went bust.  I recalled that someone had been trying to get rid of poker chips a few weeks before but couldn’t recall who.  I promised to work on that.

February 13, 2019

Palms in Bucerias

I went to the gym in Bucerias on Wednesday morning and it dawned on me that the following day was Valentine’s Day.  I thought it would be nice to go to Karen’s Place for dinner that night so, after the gym, I walked clear across Bucerias to try to make a reservation.  They were already completely booked.  I did, however, manage to take some really nice photographs of street scenes to paint later, so my trek wasn’t for nought.  I did, however, exhaust myself after having worked out exceptionally hard.  My legs were Jello by the time I got home.

Greg had never seen my house, so we ventured across the highway to visit the house and go to Tacos Junior for tacos al pastor.  It was hard to beat a plate of five tacos for seventy pesos.  We decided to stop for ice cream at the parlor near the plaza in La Cruz.  We found the plaza transformed for a large private party.  It seemed that the Four Seasons Hotel in Punta de Mita had staged the event so their wealthy gringo guests could experience “an authentic Mexican fishing village.”  They had decorated the entire plaza with paper flowers and colored lanterns.  They had folkloric dancers and music, catered food, and fancy wine.  Every entrance to the plaza was guarded by tourist police to keep out the authentic residents.

The Four Seasons Party in Our Plaza

Decorations in the Plaza

 I had a very strong gut reaction to this invasion of our public space by wealthy foreigners.  The irony of my reaction did not escape me.  However, after six years of trying to blend in and be a good neighbor in La Cruz, I resented our town being made a tourist attraction.  Even Greg, who only comes here for a few weeks each year,  had a strong negative reaction to “our plaza” being invaded and the locals being excluded.  I couldn’t help but wonder how the Mexican residents felt about it.  I hoped the hotel had paid dearly and that the money would go towards improving the plaza for the benefit of all.  I also hoped they wouldn’t be turning our village into Disneyland Mexico on a regular basis.  There was nothing “authentic” about the experience they were offering their guests.  If they wanted “authentic” they should have been turned loose to eat street tacos and trip over cobblestones.

February 14-15, 2019

Valentine's Dawn

Special Decorations in the Marina Restroom

I got up early to run on Valentine’s Day.  The cleaning staff had decorated the restrooms specially for the holiday.  We listened to the net and then moved the boat from Dock 3 to Dock 10.  Greg wanted to get Scout farther away from the dusty parking lot.  I liked being on Dock 3 because it was closer to town and my house, but Dock 10 was closer to the showers and I did have a lot of friends there, also.

After securing the boat, I headed home on my borrowed bicycle.  Instead of cycling up Langosta, I decided to ride around the marina and take the dirt road that runs up to the highway behind Oso’s.  Somebody must have bought the lot where the road ran through because I suddenly encountered a shiny, new, chain link fence around the rectangular parcel containing the road.  Not to be discouraged, someone had already cleared a new road a few hundred feet to the left.

Fence Across the Road

So Somebody Bulldozed a New Road

Greg had also tried (and failed) to make reservations at Frascati’s for Valentine’s Day, so we had elected to eat an early Valentine’s Day dinner at La Cava.  We were the only people there at 17:30 and had a nice, quiet dinner.  We went early so that we could make it to the amphitheater in time for movie night.  They were showing Just Getting Started with Morgan Freeman and Tommy Lee Jones.  It was a cute comedy and there was a big crowd even though it was Valentine’s Day.

Friday evening was Mexican Train Dominoes at the Poolside Deli.  I hadn't been for a few weeks, so was eager to go.  It was there that I had heard someone wanted to get rid of a set of poker chips, but I couldn't recall whom.  I asked around and it turned out that it was Alvaro, the owner of the deli.    My friend, Judy, asked for me and, the next thing I knew, I had a lovely set of poker chips to donate to Scout.

I was making an effort to introduce Greg to more of the delights of La Cruz so, Friday night, we went to the Black Forest to eat German food and listen to Latcho and Andrea.  The place was full and the audience appreciative, which inspired an energetic performance.  A gypsy dancer dropped in during the second set and danced a couple of numbers.  Soon, nearly everyone was on their feet.  One of their fans passed the tip jar and they did well that night.  I would have to remember to do that for them in the future.  We made a reservation to return on March 1^st when Geo would be playing with Latcho and Andrea.  I had never heard them play together.

February 16, 2019

I got up to run on Saturday but had been working out hard all week and my body told me that running was not a good idea.  I settled for walking 2.5 laps around the marina and enjoying the beautiful sunrise. 

Dawn Over the Marina

I returned to the boat and spent the rest of the early morning helping Greg get ready to fly home.  I made breakfast while he packed.  It was a shame he had to return home, where it was snowing heavily, when there were still so many things that I wanted to show him in La Cruz and Bucerias.

Once Greg had left and I had showered, I set about removing the covers from the cockpit cushions to launder them.  All of the zippers had corroded and pretty much dissolved the plastic teeth under the zipper pulls, making them very difficult to remove.  I managed to get three of them off and soaked the others with lubricant in the hope that I might be able to budge them later.  I packed up the laundry, closed up the boat, and went home to relax and practice the guitar, balancing the bag of laundry on my handlebars.  Both my roommates were off sailing and I had the house to myself.

Cheko and His Band at the Octopus' Garden

I had a ticket to see Cheko Ruiz’ band play the music of the Gypsy Kings that night at the Octopus’ Garden.  For once, I elected to eat before I went and just have a glass of wine and a piece of fabulous carrot cake at the show.  The place was completely sold out.  It was clear that Gypsy Kings music was a big draw for Canadian condo dwellers.  I was a big fan of Cheko’s original music, so was a bit sorry to see him go in that direction, but it was clearly working for him financially.  The audience was enthusiastic, and I hoped they would support him in whatever else he did going forward.  He did announce that he was releasing a new, original song on Spotify later that week.

February 17, 2019

Sunday being my rest day, I slept in until 8:30.  I undid my braid and stepped into the shower.  I always start showering while the water is still cold, but I wait to wash my hair until it warms up.  That day, it never did.  I threw on a dress and went to take a look at the water heater.  We were out of propane.  I had to bundle up my loose and frizzy hair, pack up the laundry, and return to the marina to complete my shower.

Coffee at La Comer

While I was at the marina, I replaced the clean cushion covers and successfully removed the remaining ones.  Paul and Carol from Unleashed had suggested we have gin and tonics on Scout that evening and we had invited a few other couples.  There was nothing left in the way of food on Scout, so I needed to go to the store.  I liked to have Sunday morning coffee and pastries at La Comer but, with all the distractions, it was after noon before I was able to return home, start the second load of laundry, and catch a combi to La Comer.  I was afraid I’d have trouble getting a seat because of the crowds for the Sunday market, but I got lucky.

I went to the Scotia Bank at the Mega to get money.  They had an agreement with the Bank of America not to charge ATM fees, but the only bank in the area was at the Mega and not convenient.  It had been much easier when the agreement was with Santander, but they had switched.  I had been using the CI Banco below my gym, instead, because they charged the lowest fee and were convenient, although somewhat unreliable.

I finally got to La Comer about 13:00 and enjoyed free WiFi while drinking my caramel macchiato.  The girls behind the counter were real artists in coffee foam and served me a credible portrait of Tony the Tiger with my mini croissants.  I felt more like I was in Tuscany than Mexico.

I appeased my guilt over having a party on his boat while Greg was enduring a snowstorm by buying him a bottle of nice gin and restocking the supply of snack foods.  Then I crossed the road and did the majority of my shopping at the Mega.  Between resupplying my home and provisioning Scout, I could not have carried one more item.  It was fortunate that a bus arrived before a combi.  I took the front seat and filled it with all my packages.  I had to walk a little further from the official bus stop when we got to La Cruz, but I didn’t have to squeeze down the aisle with all my bundles.

Party on Scout

It was nearly 16:00 by the time I got back.  I hung the cushion covers out to dry while I unpacked the groceries.  Fortunately, they dried rapidly because I barely managed to make it back to the boat before 17:30 when the guests started arriving.  I was still installing the last cushion cover when Paul and  Carol arrived with the bar supplies.  Paul made a round of gin and tonics while I whipped up some guacamole.  Each couple brought some appetizers and we had a nice spread.  Judy, from Honu, even brought homemade tonic.  It was a lovely party and we sat in Scout’s cockpit until long after dark.  Eventually, we moved the party to the Red Chairs and ate tacos, quesadillas, and stuffed potatoes.  We had a very nice dinner, including soft drinks, for 55 pesos apiece.  It was one of the nicest evenings we had spent in La Cruz and it was a shame Greg missed it.  We took photos to send him to make him jealous.

By the time the boat was cleaned and put away, it was quite late.  I bicycled home through empty streets.

BARRA DE NAVIDAD TO LA CRUZ – SAILING UPHILL

February 4, 2019

Cannons awoke me at 6:00 on Monday.  In Mexico, they set off cannons to frighten away evil spirits on holidays.  Monday was Constitution Day in Mexico, which commemorates the signing of the constitution that returned the land to the peasants (and created endless land title squabbles for the next century plus.) 

Water Hazard at Dawn

I got up to get in a last run before we left Barra.  I ran four miles through the golf course before dawn.  Bill and Susan were up by the time I got back, since they needed to leave by 8:45 to catch their flight back to L.A.  We all drank coffee and they stayed long enough to receive one last visit from the French baker.  I passed, having made another batch of hard boiled eggs.

Early Morning Colimilla

I finally found hot water at the shower in the hotel spa.  I took advantage of that to wash and re-braid my hair.  As my braid was then over two feet long, I required conditioner to be able to comb it out and that required hot water to rinse out of my hair.  On long passages with no showers, I wrapped it in a bandana to keep it from getting shaggy.

We spent the day doing last minute chores.  The laundry was closed for the holiday, so I did a load of washing in buckets while Greg used the internet in the hotel lobby to take care of business.  We made tacos from chilorio and leftover bean dip for dinner.

So many cruisers had departed after the Superbowl that the WiFi, which hadn’t worked since we arrived, suddenly began to operate perfectly well.  We spent the evening with our noses buried in our devices.

February 5, 2019

Morning in the Barra Marina

The cannons woke me, again, at 6:00.  I got up early, but it wasn’t a running day so I merely sat in the cockpit, drinking bouillon, and enjoyed the internet connection.  We were leaving that morning and had chores to do but there was no hurry.  It was only a few hours to Tenacatita.

Rounding the Point Between Barra and Tenacatita

We checked out and left the marina just before 11:00.  Leaving the bay, we motored straight into the wind but, after we rounded the point, we were able to fall off just enough to sail the rest of the way.  We had a leisurely sail across Tenacatita Bay and dropped anchor just in time for lunch.  It was quite breezy and, by the time I had made quesadillas for lunch, I found it too cool to want to swim.  We relaxed and enjoyed the scenery.  I practiced the guitar and read while Greg took a nap.

Sunset in Tenacatita

The sunset was gorgeous enough that I paused my dinner preparations long enough to watch it.  I made Tuscan sauteed chicken breast fillets for dinner with fried plantains and salad.  The data connection was surprisingly good in Tenacatita Bay and we managed to sit in the cockpit and watch Trump’s State of the Union address on my phone via YouTube.  In 2016, I couldn’t even get a voice signal there.  Technology was improving rapidly in Mexico.

February 6, 2019

With no cannons to wake me, I slept until nearly 7:00 but still managed to rise in time to wrap myself in a blanket and watch the dawn from the cockpit.  It was quite chilly (probably 67 degrees) before the sun rose and I needed long pants and a fleece.

Sunrise from the Cockpit of Scout

Greg got up in time for the net and I made banana pancakes after that.  Greg started up the generator to charge the batteries and make water and I sat down to write while there was power for the computer.

We were too lazy to bother putting the dinghy in the water, so spent the day on the boat.  I swam six laps around the boat, forgetting, once again, to wear my goggles.  The water was quite pleasant, especially near the surface where it was probably 80 degrees.  Whales and dolphins were playing in the bay and people would get on the radio and alert everyone when they saw a whale.  The anchorage was a lively place with lots of people swimming.  One woman reported being circled by dolphins as she swam.  Unfortunately, I had no such company as I circled the boat.

We enjoyed a colorful sunset and then prepared dinner.  We waited until after sunset so that we wouldn’t be ready for bed at 20:00.  I made steak, salad, and smashed potatoes (potatoes cooked in the microwave, flattened, and fried in butter) for dinner.  We were out of red wine but shared a bottle of pinot grigio.  Lazy days at anchor were quite enjoyable if one didn’t get stuck out there for long stretches.

February 7, 2019

I got up early to watch the dawn.  If I hadn’t being seeing pictures of snow in the San Francisco Bay Area, I’d have been tempted to say it was downright cold.  I wrapped myself in a blanket and watched the dew drip off the bimini.

Motoring out of Tenacatita Bay

As soon a Greg was up, I made coffee and baked some corn muffins.  Even so, we managed to haul anchor and sail out of the bay just before our anticipated departure of 9:00.  There wasn’t enough wind to sail, so we motored north towards Chamela.  Dragon’s Toy had left an hour earlier and we could see them in the distance.  We gradually overtook them as the day progressed.  There were no wind waves (no wind) but the swells were bigger than usual and we rolled a lot.  Still, the weather was warm and the scenery lovely.  I had no complaints.  I was so relaxed it was all I could do to stay awake.  It was hard to believe I had been stressed just a few months before.  Even La Cruz was stressful compared to cruising the coast of Mexico.

Passing Dragon's Toy

Dragon's Toy at Anchor in Chamela

We pulled into Chamela Bay in time for lunch.  Greg took a nap and I took a swim.  Then we put the dinghy in the water.  There was still quite a bit of swell, which required me to lower it to the water at precisely the right moment to avoid tangling it in the lifelines.  Then we had to repeat the process with the motor.  Once we had the dinghy assembled and running, we collected Cary and Tom from Dragon’s Toy and went ashore to check out the town of Perula.

While I had been to the beach on a couple of other occasions, I had never realized there was a town there.  We took the dinghy up the estuary to where the pangas tied up.  It was low tide and we bottomed out.  We had to get out of the dinghy and walk the last twenty-five yards.  We had forgotten the oars and were out of luck once the water got too shallow for the motor.  Fortunately, the water was less than a foot deep.

The Plaza in Punta Perula

 We walked through a beachfront restaurant and a couple of blocks up to the main road through Perula. It was a sleepy place.  There were a few restaurants along the highway, but most were closed at that hour.  There were some good grocery stores and a couple of farmacias, but no touristy shops, which was refreshing.  We walked as far as the main square before we got hot and decided it was time for a cold one and headed back to the beach.

The Beach at Perula

We strolled along the beach to a restaurant near where we had left the dinghy and ordered an early dinner. I was in the mood for a breaded fish fillet but the others ate shrimp.  In Jalisco and Nayarit, it was easy to get sick of shrimp.  I always got enough to last me through the months spent in the USA.

Tom, Cary, and Greg in a Palapa in Perula

We returned to the boat before sunset and sat in the cockpit reading and surfing the internet.  The connection was surprisingly good considering the only cell tower I had seen was in the main square. There wasn’t much of a sunset to watch and I actually dozed until after it got dark.  The night was uncommonly warm and dry and we stayed in the cockpit until it was time to retire.  I was tempted to sleep out there, but the soft mattress finally lured me below decks.

The Anchorage and Islands in Chamela Bay

February 8, 2019

Dragon's Toy Leaving at Dawn

Once again, I got up to sit in the cockpit and watch the dawn.  Dragon’s Toy was motoring out of the bay as I came on deck. They were headed for Ipala to get a head start on rounding Cabo Corrientes on Saturday morning.  With a faster boat, we planned to remain in Chamela’s superior anchorage until midnight and then head for Cabo Corrientes, hoping to round the cape about dawn.

 

Dawn was very pink and much warmer than the day before.  We lounged in the cockpit through coffee and breakfast and then I did eight laps around the boat.  I finally remembered to wear my goggles, which allowed me to swim the crawl without getting salt in my eyes, although I still got plenty in my mouth.  I figured I ought to practice swimming the crawl, but it was by far my least favorite stroke. 

I swam when at anchor but swimming would never be my preferred form of exercise.  The only part I really liked about it was looking across the water from that low angle when it was calm and the surface glassy.  With my goggles on, I could see that the water was very clear and a beautiful shade of blue green.  The morning sun was just warm enough to dry me when I got out, but not hot enough to burn.  Scout had a hot, freshwater shower on the swim step which was the ultimate luxury.  I was getting very spoiled.

I spent the early afternoon writing and then Greg made lunch.  It seemed like we had so much time to kill and then, suddenly, it was almost time to leave.  I made a quick dinner of chili and grilled cheese sandwiches and we pulled out of the anchorage just after sunset, hoping to reach Cabo Corrientes at dawn when calm conditions were forecast.

The weather report was predicting calm conditions all night, but there was a large swell running and a steady wind on the nose.  I stayed up to stand on the bow and keep a look out for the reef as we exited the bay.  Once we were clear of the reef and headed north, I went below to catch a few winks on the settee as we bashed along.  I slept for the first hour or so but then it got rougher and awakened me.  Greg came below to rouse me for a change of watch just after midnight.

February 9, 2019

Rather than set a watch schedule, we had agreed to just request relief whenever we grew tired.  It was only a one-night passage, so we didn’t need to worry too much about getting enough sleep.  It was chilly and very dark when I came up at 00:30.   There was only a sliver of a moon and it was very damp.  The wind and swell had not abated.  I had all my clothes on and was considering putting on socks.  Scout’s engine didn’t heat the floor of the cockpit like Comet’s did.

We pushed on through the night, followed by Pura Vida several miles behind us.  Dragon’s Toy had left the previous morning and was spending the night in Ipala.  I had intended to stick it out until 4:00, but Greg couldn’t sleep and came back on deck at 3:30.  Shortly after I went down, I felt water on my face.  I got up and closed the porthole over my head, thinking that would solve the problem.  I didn’t realize that all the hatches aft of the mast were open.  The next big wave gushed through the three hatches in the main salon, drenching Greg’s (fortunately closed) computer, the settee and the galley.  I had to get up and mop up the water before returning to my nap.

The wind and seas grew rougher with the daylight and we saw nearly 20 knots of wind coming around Cabo Corrientes.  It always seemed like we were home once we rounded Cabo Corrientes, but it took us another five hours of damp and windy motoring to reach La Cruz.  Dragon’s Toy had left Ipala at dawn and were two hours behind us.

I stayed up until 9:30 and then went back down to take a nap.  That far into the bay, it was calmer and I slept well until Greg slowed the motor, which woke me just in time to prepare to land in the La Cruz marina.  I piloted the boat while Greg prepared the lines and fenders.  He got things organized just in time to take the helm and make the last two turns into the slip.  I really didn’t want to take responsibility for parking Scout on a windy day.  Even Greg had a tough time backing into our slip near the seawall on Dock 3.  It was windy enough that the wind overcame the bow thrusters and we needed help from line handlers on the dock to get the boat secured.

We were hungry and tired when we arrived.  Showers were the first order of business and then we went in search of breakfast.  Unfortunately, we had missed breakfast, so had to settle for shrimp and arrachera tacos at the Ballena Blanca.  Then we went back to the boat for a nap.  I really meant to go home and do laundry but ended up lounging around the boat until it was time for a cocktail and a lasagna dinner at Falconi’s with Tom and Cary from Dragon’s Toy.

February 10, 2019

Dawn in Marina La Cruz

I got up early on Sunday morning and sat in the cockpit, using the internet before everyone else in the marina overwhelmed the system.  I munched a leftover corn muffin, made some coffee, and waited for Greg to ready himself to visit the Sunday market.  We bought churros at the food court near the marina entrance, which tided us over until we had worked our way through the throngs of people to the food court at the other end.  I bought a baguette and some raspberries on the way but my true destination was the Italian meat vendor out on the end of the breakwater who sold porchetta.  I bought a double portion and we went back to the boat and made porchetta sandwiches for lunch.

Dancer at the Market

Figures at the Market

With raspberries threatening to go to mush if I didn’t get them in the freezer immediately, I packed up my things and we headed to the taxi stand.  The taxis were busy with all the tourists attending the market and it took about a half an hour of waiting in the hot sun to finally get a taxi to take my luggage the short distance to my home.  It was good to be home.

I took a shower and spent the afternoon doing laundry and trying, unsuccessfully, to nap.  Every time I started to doze off, someone came home or it was time to change the laundry.  The last of my clothes got dry just in time to catch a ride to the marina on the back of Cherie’s scooter.  All our food was on the boat and I went back there to make chicken in green mole from the chicken we had thawed and never eaten the night we left Chamela.

I meant to go listen to the Cuban band at the Green Tomate on Sunday night but they started late and, by then, I was too tired to walk the three blocks, much less dance.  We sat in the cockpit and listened to the Cuban band compete with the music coming from Oso’s.  They sounded good and I would have to get there some night when I had more energy.

TENACATITA TO BARRA DE NAVIDAD FOR SUPERBOWL

January 28, 2019

Dawn in Tenacatita

Once again, I got up early to watch the sun rise and lounge in the cockpit until the others rose.  Bill was also an early riser, but Greg and Susan liked their sleep.  Having been forbidden to drink coffee, I was drinking hot electrolyte solution which probably bothered my stomach as much as the coffee, but at least helped to minimize the leg, ankle, and foot cramps that tortured me in the early morning hours.

Dolphin Playing in the Anchorage

Bill made one-eyed Jacks for breakfast (toast with a hole cut out and an egg fried in the center.)  We passed a leisurely morning and listened to the Tenacatita Cruisers’ Net.  Dolphins were playing in the anchorage.

Construction Near the Mouth of the Estuary

Once we got ourselves organized, we piled into the dinghy and headed towards shore, stopping to chat with our friends on Dragon’s Toy.  Our destination was the estuary known as the "Jungle Cruise" or "Estuary Tour" that parallels the coast for a mile or two, ending in a lagoon.  The entrance to the estuary had been remodeled since my last visit, with a newly constructed rock jetty.  A backhoe was still digging away, probably widening the channel.  We had to skirt the construction on the way up the estuary.

Mangrove Roots

We continued slowly up the estuary until we cleared the shallow bits and then Greg opened up the outboard and we screamed through the wide part, finally slowing when the channel narrowed and the mangroves encroached upon our passage.  With such a big outboard (20hp), we couldn’t idle slowly enough to take pictures of the wildlife, but we did see two crocodiles and lots of red legged crabs.  The passage needed clearing, but we pushed on through to the lagoon at the other end and beached the dinghy there.  Fish were jumping all over the lagoon.

Lagoon at the End of the Estuary

We walked a short distance across a sand spit to an area where people were camping and several palapa restaurants were operating on the beach.  We chose one and sat in the shade to drink beer and enjoy a snack of shrimp quesadillas and octopus in garlic sauce.  Life didn’t get much better than that.  The view was fantastic and it felt like we were in Cabo San Lucas before the tourists came.  We would have liked to linger, but Greg had to get back to the boat to call the marina in Barra de Navidad to get a slip before they closed.

Palapa Restaurants at the "Aquarium"

The "Aquarium"

We zoomed back through the estuary, more concerned with speed than nature watching, and nearly missed a turn.  Traveling so fast in a confined space made me nervous and we did touch bottom shortly after recovering from the missed turn.  We slowed after that and made it over the bar and back into the bay without further incident.  We got to the boat just in time for a swim (5 laps that day) and happy hour for those of us who hadn’t used our daily alcohol ration back on the beach.

We were low on provisions, but I managed to stretch two hamburger patties into taco meat for four and we had plenty of veggies for a nice salad.  Greg was unable to connect the hard drive containing movies to the TV because there was something wrong with the USB port, so we spent the later part of the evening reading until I fell asleep early.

January 29, 2019

Sunrise in Tenacatita

I missed the best part of the dawn, but got up in time for the second act when the sun cleared the hills between Tenacatita and Barra.  The orientation of the bays there allowed us to see both sunrise and sunset across the water.  Bill made French toast for breakfast which those not dieting ate with peanut butter and bananas.  The rest of the morning was spent lounging.  Then we picked up Tom and Cary from Dragon’s Toy, hauled up the anchor, and motored over to the area of Tenacatita Bay known as the Aquarium to go snorkeling.  We anchored off the beach where we had eaten the day before.  The holding wasn’t good, but it was fine for a calm afternoon and Greg had to stay on the boat, anyway.

The rest of us swam a good distance from the boat around (in my case) or through a line of jagged rocks into the bowl that forms the Aquarium.  That area is surrounded by rocks and filled with coral heads.  There were many types of tropical fish swimming about singly and in large schools.  I paused several times to let large schools of colorful fish surround me.  It was somewhat nerve wracking to work my way around the rocks in the swell, but I made it without getting dashed against anything.  With Greg stuck in the boat, I didn’t have a dive partner and had lost the others when they elected to go through the rocks, rather than around.

Scout Anchored at the "Aquarium"

I found some of the others when I got into the bowl and spent a few minutes exploring before I started to get cold and decided to head back to the boat before I developed cramps.  This time, I elected to pass between the rocks.  The reef, which appeared broken above the surface, was continuous below, making the passages shallow.  I had to swim like mad to make it through between swells.  Cary wasn’t so lucky and got a small scrape on her thigh.  I met Bill and Susan on the way back to the boat and we found Tom and Cary already aboard.  I did get a minor cramp just before I reached the boat, so was glad I had decided to return when I did.  It felt good to climb out of the water and lie in the warm sun long enough for my skin to dry.

Once everyone was dry and dressed again, we motored back to the anchorage where, thankfully, no one had taken our spot.  We were back by 14:30.   We returned Tom and Cary to their boat and relaxed for a couple of hours until it was time to head into shore for an early dinner at the palapa restaurant on the beach.  We wanted to be sure to leave the shore before the bugs came out.

We had left the wheels off the dinghy because one of them was refusing to operate properly.  We didn’t have time to drag the dinghy above the surf line before the next wave hit us and swamped us.  I had to borrow a bailer from one of the dinghies (with wheels) parked on the beach to remove the water so that we could drag our dinghy to safety on the sand.  The drain plug had rusted in place so that we couldn’t remove it to drain the boat.

The Palapa Restaurant in Tenacatita

We felt downright lucky to be sitting in yet another beachside restaurant, eating tasty fish and sipping cold beer.  We escaped with only a few bug bites after I broke out the lemon eucalyptus oil.  The mosquitoes weren’t out but there was something in the sand that took a few chunks out of us.

Tom and Cary had declined to accompany us to dinner but came over afterward for an evening of Mexican Train dominoes.  We taught Bill and Susan to play and they caught on quickly, winning most of the games.  We managed to stay awake until nearly 22:00, playing dominoes in the cockpit by the pale light of a Luci lamp and guarded from mosquitoes by a citronella candle.

January 30, 2019

Shipwreck on Punta Graham

I made a frittata out of the last of the eggs, some potatoes, and whatever else I could find in the fridge.  By late morning, we headed out of Tenacatita Bay for the short trip around the headland to Barra de Navidad.  We made a slight detour to check on the ship that had grounded during Hurricane Patricia in 2015.  It was a little rustier and had broken in half, but was still sitting in the rocky alcove where the storm had deposited it.  The location was inaccessible from either land or sea, so salvage had been impossible.

The Barra Channel

We motored across Bahia de Navidad and down the narrow channel leading to the Barra Lagoon and marina, stopping at the fuel dock to refuel before heading to our slip on D dock. We checked in with the harbormaster and then trooped up to the lobby to open accounts with the hotel and show Bill and Susan the spectacular view from up there.  The entire town of Barra de Navidad and the lagoon were spread before us.

View from the Hotel Lobby

We enjoyed lunch by the pool, sharing a pizza.  At sunset, we took a water taxi across the channel to town with Tom and Cary from Dragon’s Toy and ate Italian food at Loco Loco.  We weren’t really in the mood for Italian food, having had pizza for lunch, but it was Tuesday night and many restaurants were closed.  I opted for a Caesar salad, which was immense and surely had more calories than the pasta dishes.  It was late when we got back to the boat and we packed it in shortly after our return.

Hotel Grand Bay Isla Navidad

Sunset from the Barra Malecon

January 31, 2019

Golf Course at Dawn

I got up early to watch the dawn and take a five-mile run through the lovely golf course and out to the beach.  There was never anyone on the golf course and I felt as if the large staff of gardeners were maintaining it just so I could run there.  I always waved at them as the truck delivering them to their posts passed by.  To get to the golf course, I had to run through the town of La Culebra, also known as Colimilla.  Since the last time I had been there, a new "Telesecundaria" had opened.  La Culebra is remote and this allowed the local youth to telecommute to high school.

The Beach at the Grand Bay Golf Course

Telesecundaria in La Culebra

We hung around the boat long enough to listen to the net and get pastries from the French baker and then took a water taxi across the channel and up the canal to the Cabo Blanco Hotel, which was the stop nearest to the port captain’s office.  The port captain was located in a house smack in the middle of a residential neighborhood and was difficult to find.  I knew how to get there from the main road, but had no idea where it was in relation to the hotel.  We wandered around and finally asked a gardener trimming some bushes.  He kindly descended from his ladder and led us there.

Motoring Up the Canal in Barra

Pool at the Cabo Blanco Hotel

After checking in (and back out), we strolled into town and spent half an hour perusing the weekly market.  I found the long-sleeved muslin shirts that some friends had requested the previous year, but was unable to connect with them before the market was over. 

The Market in Barra de Navidad

After the market, we ate brunch at Bananas, an upstairs beachfront restaurant with a lovely view of Bahia de Navidad.  I wanted something light and ordered molletes with bacon.  Molletes are usually just pieces of toast with a few beans spread over them, but these were made from a sandwich roll and covered with cheese and bacon.  They were more like pizza than molletes and contained nearly my entire daily allowance of calories.  Barra was proving to be hard on my diet.

View from the Terrace at Bananas

Susan stayed to get a massage and Bill, Greg, and I strolled back through the market where Bill bought a nice Hawaiian shirt for 100 pesos.  We returned to the boat and spent the remainder of the afternoon by the pool, pretending to be on vacation.

Dinner, that night, was 15 peso tacos on the street in Barra.  Then we went to the Thrifty ice cream store for dessert.  For two nights we had searched without success for churros from Greg’s favorite vendor.  We were probably better off without them.

February 1, 2019

Boats at Anchor in the Barra Lagoon

I finally succumbed to the temptation of the French baker and had half a mini quiche and half a raisin danish for breakfast.  The raisins had been soaked in tequila and were plump and juicy.  Showers were an adventure, as there was no hot water in the marina showers.  Hot water in those showers had always been on and off and seemed to be in an “off” phase.

Bill and Susan went into Barra for lunch and Greg and I stayed behind to use the internet in the hotel lobby.  I spent all afternoon working on a blog post.  Even in the lobby, the internet was slow.  I had no data service anywhere in Barra or Melaque, as it turned out.

Susan at Mary's

The Colimilla Waterfront

Mary's Restaurant at Closing Time

A big group of cruisers met at Mary’s restaurant on the shore of the lagoon for drinks and dinner.  The restaurant was huge and, while we weren’t the only customers, the place was mostly empty at 18:30.    We took a water taxi to get there.  It cost 30 pesos round trip from the hotel.  We sat in the cockpit upon our return, snacking on popcorn and peanuts, until it was time to retire.

February 2, 2019

Hotel Grand Bay at Dawn

I got up early for another run through Colimilla and the golf course.  It was wonderful to be able to run for miles on well paved roads without the danger of falling into an uncovered water meter or tripping over a broken sidewalk.  Running through the golf course, I encountered a large flock of black vultures who, like me, seemed to enjoy the golf course in the morning.

Zopilotes Negros (Black Vultures)

After another French baker breakfast, we took a water taxi into Barra and then grabbed a taxi to Melaque.  We got out at the main plaza and then browsed our way to the bank where we waited in a very long line to use the ATM.  Cash in hand, we dawdled our way to the beach and ate hamburgers at a restaurant overlooking the bay.  A few sailboats were rocking in the Melaque anchorage and it looked uncomfortable.

Greg in Line for the ATM in Melaque

The Melaque Anchorage

We were out of almost everything, so Greg and I shopped for provisions at the Hawaiian market.  The place was packed with merchandise and people and it was difficult to move.  As usual, there was little available in the way of entrees.  We bought some frozen chicken breasts and one steak but the only packages of arrachera they had would have fed an army.  We couldn’t buy eggs because they sold them loose and, without a carton, they would never have made it back to the boat intact.  Still, they had plenty of liquor, tonic, and mineral water.  It was clear what was important to tourists in Melaque.

We took another taxi back to Barra.  Greg wanted a nap and Susan wasn’t feeling well, so Bill and I went up to the pool without them.  We didn’t last long, however, because a strong wind blew up and napkins and empty cups were blowing everywhere.  It was actually rather chilly in the shade.  We returned to the boat which was somewhat sheltered and a more pleasant place to lounge.  We met Greg along the way and returned to Scout for happy hour.

The Pool at Hotel Grand Bay

As the sun started to set, Bill, Greg, and I ventured up the hill to the town officially named La Culebra but known to the locals as Colimilla.  We ate dinner at an upstairs restaurant on the main road aptly called The View.  It was a small place but had a lovely view of the lagoon.  The prices were modest and the food tasty.  Greg’s pizza was especially delicious.  It was made with a crispy thin crust and would have stood proudly beside any pizza in Italy.  Bill and I each enjoyed a slice.  Bill had fish tacos and I chicken fajitas which were also yummy.  Dinner was a success.  After dinner, we managed to procure a dozen eggs (the proprietress found us a carton) from one of the tiendas on the main road.  Colimilla has three tiendas scattered along the stretch of road running through the top of the town and a laundry, as well.

Greg and Bill at The View in Colimilla

None of us were quite ready for bed at 21:00 when we returned. We sat in the cockpit and enjoyed the cool breeze.  It had been so breezy in the restaurant that empty beer cans blew off the table.  It would prove to be a great night for sleeping, even though a wedding reception at the hotel was playing loud music until after midnight.

February 3, 2019

Dawn at the Barra Marina

It was cold when I got up, too cold to take a cold shower.  I pulled on long pants and a fleece and took a walk out along the breakwater and down towards the fuel dock to enjoy the spectacular dawn.  Bill was stirring when I got back, so I made a pot of coffee.  Greg got up shortly thereafter and we sat in the cockpit, waking up.  Eventually, I boiled some eggs and cleaned the galley.  It was still too cold to face a cold shower.

Scout in the Barra Marina

Once the French baker had visited and the net was over, we gave Scout a thorough scrubbing.  She wasn’t horribly dirty, but it was nice to get her clean.  When that task was complete, I headed up to the spa where I had heard there was hot water.  Success!  I finally managed to take a decent shower for the first time since leaving La Cruz.  It felt heavenly to shave my legs.

Bill and Susan headed up to Colimilla for breakfast after I returned.  Susan had skipped a couple of meals and must have been ravenous.  Greg and I stayed behind to read, write, and practice the guitar.

Brian and Tracy on Woodwind had invited some of the cruisers to their boat for a “tailgate” party before the Superbowl.  I scraped together some bean dip and Bill bought what he could find in the way of chips (small bags of Doritos) from the marina store.  Brian and Tracy had made wings and grilled veggies.  Everyone brought something and there was plenty of food.  We filled the cockpit and spilled over onto the cabin top which was mercifully shaded.  Passing boats remarked that the boat was sitting very low in the water with so many people aboard.  It was a fun gathering and the best part of the day for non-football fans.

Finally, it was time for Superbowl.  Bill and Greg went up to the hotel to watch the Superbowl on their big screen and eat endless bar food.  The cover for the Superbowl party was 350 pesos, which got you a wristband entitling you to entrance and all the goodies you could eat.  Susan and I elected to remain in the boat where we spent the evening reading and relaxing.  We enjoyed that much more than four hours of boredom in a noisy sports bar.  The Patriots just won, again, anyway.