Thursday, March 21, 2019

MUSIC ALL OVER NAYARIT


March 11-12, 2019

Monday was a gym day.  I was feeling a bit under the weather as a result of something I ate at the race banquet, but I pressed myself to work out, anyway.  I spent a relaxing day at home, writing and practicing. 

Despite my lethargy, I made it to the Octopus’ Garden in time to see Perla singing with Tatewari.  Perla is a very talented vocalist in her own right and I always enjoyed her performances with Tatewari.  They played a very different set when she accompanied them, with more traditional Mexican songs. 
 
Perla Singing with Tatewari
 
It was Tatewari’s last concert of the season and they were in a festive mood.  The show ended with fireworks shooting out of the end of their guitars.  I had spent the whole evening trying to figure out what they had attached to the heads of their instruments and that answered my question.  We had a lot of fun.  Still, I was glad the show didn’t go late because I was ready to hit the hay.

Tatewari with Flaming Guitars
Tuesday Sunrise
I wasn’t feeling energetic Tuesday morning, but managed one lap around the marina, despite having overslept.  The sunrise was exceptional.  I spent another slow day at home and finally managed to complete a blog post.  I had not been in the mood to write for quite some time, possibly because I had already written almost everything there was to write about La Cruz.



La Fonda Cocqui (Tacos Across the Street)











We tried to go to Tacos on the Street for dinner, but discovered that they were closed on Tuesdays.  La Fonda Cocqui (also known as Tacos Across the Street) was open and doing a land office business.  We ate there, instead.  The food was just as good as the first time we had eaten there and, while I did not order one, I learned that they served margaritas.  I filed that information away for later.

March 13, 2019

I got up early and sat in the cockpit to watch the dawn.  Whatever had invaded my digestive tract was an early riser.  After the net, I went to the gym.  I managed to complete my aerobic workout, but felt too weak to do any weight training.

We had tickets to see Luna Rumba and Media Luna at Los Arroyos Verdes that evening.  My friend, Marc, had arranged a van to take eleven of us out there at 17:00.  We gathered in the square and were only a few minutes late getting started. 

It seemed like everyone attending the concert had the same idea of getting there early and eating dinner at the taco bar.  Sixty pesos bought you three small, very greasy, pre-prepared tacos, some slimy nopal salad and beans if you got there before we did.  The taco “bar” consisted of salsa and shredded cabbage.  The price was right, but the result was disappointing.  Still, the idea had been popular and there were more people trying to eat than seats in the eating area.  It was a mob scene.  We ate as fast as we could and then headed to the concert area where we had staked out seats as soon as they opened the gate.  There were twelve of us once Karen joined the party.
 
Media Luna Playing with Luna Rumba 
 Luna Rumba started the show, playing five now familiar songs from their repertoire.  Then they were joined by the three guitarists from Media Luna and played a mix of original Media Luna pieces and Luna Rumba favorites.  It was incredibly exciting to see them all playing together.  It is not often that you get five amazing guitarists simultaneously playing flamenco.  Each attempted to outdo the others.  Luna Rumba is an energetic band, but the boys from Media Luna definitely cranked the energy up a notch or two.  By the time they finished their set, I was exhausted.  I think I had been holding my breath.


Caleb and Jair of Media Luna
The band gave us an intermission to recover after the Media Luna set.  Everybody was so energized, it was hard to get us seated again, but there was more to come.  Chas Eller joined the band on keyboards after the intermission.  He had produced and played on the original Luna Rumba’s first studio album.  He and Geo began the set with a jazz rendition of Fly Me to the Moon.

Luna Rumba played a few more songs and then the dancing horses returned to dance to Geo’s song, Bailando Los Caballos.  It always amazed me that those poor horses could perform in a crowded space with all the crowd and loud music.  Any horse I had had would have bolted.  They looked a little wild-eyed but did what their riders asked of them.  They were amazingly well trained.  I was interested to learn that one of the horses belonged to the owner of the La Cruz Inn, which explained why they danced there on Friday evenings.  Their performances had become quite popular.

Geo Playing in the Audience
Lily in Her Wildest Costume
After the horses, Luna Rumba played some excellent Mana and Santana covers and Geo even played while strolling through the audience.  Lily danced for the crowd in increasingly exotic costumes.  Then Media Luna rejoined the band for the grand finale and, of course, encore.  It was by far the longest show of the season.  No one wanted them to stop playing.  They got a well-deserved standing ovation.  It was easily the best show I had seen all season.  I sincerely hoped they would spend the low season recording a new album.


Our taxi driver returned to take us back to La Cruz and Marc flagged him down with a blue light like a miniature version of the ones used to direct aircraft into gates.  It was midnight by the time we got home and very late for the crew of Scout.

March 14-16, 2019

Thursday Sunrise
I managed a couple of laps around the marina on Thursday morning, although I still felt under par.  That evening, nearly the entire marina turned out to watch Bohemian Rhapsody at the amphitheater.  I enjoyed it just as much the second time, although the sound wasn’t so great.  It was clear that everybody there loved Queen and Freddie Mercury.  His incredible talent seemed to have overcome people’s prejudices.

Friday was another gym day and I still felt weak.  I struggled through my cardio workout, once again, but had to go slowly on the rowing machine.  I spent the day resting and doing laundry.  Still, I managed to make it to the Mexican Train Dominoes happy hour, although I passed on the margaritas.

Scout was planning to leave on Saturday morning, so Friday was Greg and Blair’s last night in La Cruz.  We went to Tacos on the Street for dinner with Tom and Cary from Dragon’s Toy and were joined by the entire race crew of Pinocchio.  The tacos were even better than remembered.  They only serve one kind of meat, grilled beef, but it was excellent.  They are the only restaurant in town where you can get cheese on your tacos.  You might think that they cater only to gringos, but the place is always half-full with Mexican patrons, many of whom have spent the day at the beach in La Manzanilla.  Everybody likes Tacos on the Street.

We lounged for a bit in the cockpit after dinner.  It was my last night on Scout for a few weeks, so I lingered.  I was looking forward to sleeping in my own bed and not having to shuttle back and forth from house to boat, but was going to miss the boat, crew, and dock neighbors.

Scottie in Paradise
Once again, I did a couple of laps around the marina on Saturday morning.  There was a cute little white Scottie that walked in the mornings.  He always followed quite a distance behind his owner, his short little legs scrambling to keep up.  While dogs are supposed to be leashed on the marina property, they are free to roam in the town.  It’s a great place to be a dog, although they are often injured by cars or occasionally poisoned.  My dog would have loved the weather in La Cruz but I could not take him with me when crewing, so he had to remain shivering at home.

I stayed with the boat through coffee and the net and then went home and let them get on with their preparations to leave.  By noon, they were off Punta Mita and heading north.  I was still feeling lousy, so hung around the house doing as little as possible.







March 17, 2019

I slept late on Sunday and generally relaxed until it was time to meet Karen for our trip to the Chacala Music Festival.  Marc joined us.  Chacala is a two-hour drive up the coast to the north.  As Chacala is outside the Banderas Bay area, they are on Mountain, rather than Central, time so we gained an hour driving up there. 

The previous year, I had gone for three days and rented a room there.  The festival had been disappointing so, for 2019, I had decided to just go for one day to enjoy the beach at Chacala.  It was a lovely spot.

We arrived just in time to have tacos at a restaurant overlooking the plaza.  I had shrimp tacos despite the fact that I was still suffering from the shrimp I had eaten a week before.  They were delicious.  Shrimp was one of the best things about living in Nayarit.  I seldom ate it anywhere else.
The Beach at Chacala


We took our chairs to the beach, after lunch, and spent the afternoon reading and munching ice cream from the vendor who passed by.  I tried the yaka flavored ice cream and found it quite tasty.  It was a three-day weekend for Benito Juarez’ birthday and the beach was wall to wall umbrellas.  Kids were surfing inflatable mattresses in the breakers.  We sat on the beach until the professional music began about 19:00, electing to pass up the school kids’ performances.

The festival had always been held in the campground at the edge of town, but a dispute with squatters had led to the burning of the campground buildings and the festival had been downsized and moved to the small central plaza.  This turned out to be a good thing, as the old location was gorgeous but always seemed empty.  The new location was more intimate,  The organizers had shortened the music from three to two days, which was also a good thing as they had had trouble filling the bill with good acts.
The Plaza Where the Festival Was Held


I had chosen Sunday to go because Cheko Ruiz was playing.  He was the only band I recognized from the schedule released in advance.  When we got there, we discovered that Tatewari would be playing just before him.
Tatewari (sort of) at Chacala











The first band was Trio Descante, featuring a singer, drummer, and bassist who also played melody on a six-string bass.  They played Brazilian music and were very enjoyable.  We were pleasantly surprised.  

“Tatewari” was actually Esau and Lobo plus Daniel, as Sonny had returned to Canada and Mimi was probably playing another gig.  They were seated near us and we had stopped to chat with them and Cheko earlier.  It was fun to watch them watch the other bands.  We were the La Cruz rooting section.
Cheko's Band Got the Whole Crowd Dancing

Cheko’s band came on at 21:00 and played a long set.  The crowd loved them and everyone was dancing.  Despite it being late on Sunday night, no one showed sign of flagging.
Cheko's Fabulous Trumpeter







The last band on the schedule was Sonidos de Mi Tierra, which was billed as regional music and dance from around Mexico.  We were expecting the usual Ballet Folklorico with recorded music, but were surprised with a very talented group of young musicians and dancers with fabulous costumes.  They were very professional and had released a number of albums.  No one showed signs of leaving during their performance.
 
Sonidos de Mi Tierra



We were tired by the time that set ended at 23:30, but there was still another act to follow.  Two young men, Donas and his fellow musician, at least one of whom was from La Cruz, played a short set of original music and they were very good.  As tired as I was, I had no desire to leave before they finished.


It was midnight in Chacala when we finally headed for the car.  I nodded on and off during the drive home.  It was 3:00 AM in La Cruz when Karen dropped me off.  That was the latest I had stayed out in a very long time.  We vowed we would rent a room the following year.


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