Monday, April 8, 2019

FINAL WEEK IN LA CRUZ


March 25, 2019

I finally felt almost normal, so got up and went to the gym on Monday morning.  After returning from the gym, I walked over to Mario’s grocery store to buy a little food before it got too warm.  I had eaten all my food and anticipated being in town for a few more days, so I needed supplies.

No sooner did I get home from the store than I received a message informing me that we would likely leave on Wednesday morning.  We didn’t have a long enough window to get to La Paz but would head for Mazatlan and wait there for a window to cross.  I was sorry to leave La Cruz so soon, but hadn’t been to Mazatlan since 2013 and had a friend to visit there.  It seemed like a good plan.

I spent most of the afternoon practicing the guitar and packing and then shot off a quick blog post.  It didn’t take long since almost nothing had happened the previous week.  Soon, it was time to head to the Octopus’ Garden to see Cheko Ruiz’ last concert of the season where he was scheduled to be joined by Diego Mondragon. I couldn’t miss that.
Cheko Ruiz and Diego Mondragon

Karen and I shared a table with six Canadian condo dwellers who were big fans of Cheko.  We enjoyed chatting with them while I ate dinner.  The show was fabulous.  Each musician outdid himself and even the owner, Alfredo, chimed in with his trumpet at one point.  They played some music I had never heard them play before.  One piece by Rodrigo y Gabriela rocked and the flamenco guitarist, Juan Ramirez, had a chance to shine.  He seemed to be better every time I saw him.  He had come a long way over the course of the season and I looked forward to hearing him, again, in the future.

Diego Mondragon played a few pieces with the band and added another level of complexity to the music.  Their grand finale was Cheko’s new single, Afinadito.  I decided to take a video just in case it became a huge hit.  The band jammed for over nine minutes and my arms felt like they were going to cramp up if it went one minute longer.  Diego and Daniel, the trumpeter, just kept playing and the drummer didn’t want to be outdone.  Even Juan took up some bongos and played a decent solo.  No one wanted to stop playing and the audience didn’t want the show to end, either.

It was my last show at the Octopus’ Garden, as Alfredo was losing his lease at the end of the summer and it would be converted from a restaurant to a hostel.  It was emotional for me as I had many wonderful memories of hearing and playing music there over the years.  It always seemed to take a long time to get comfortable again after my regular haunt closed.  I hoped that Alfredo would succeed in finding and establishing a new location before I returned.

March 26, 2019

I thought it was my last day and I had a lot to pack in.  I got up early and went for a run in the marina.  I had not done so for a couple of weeks and it was noticeably lighter.  I almost missed the dawn.  When I got home, I did a load of laundry and spent most of the day packing and storing away my belongings.  I practiced the guitar one last time and then packed my guitar and music.  I would be delivering my things to Unleashed later that afternoon.
I Never Got Enough of This View

I cooked up the chunk of arrachera I had bought when I thought we would be staying longer so that we could munch on it easily during the crossing.  I was leaving most of the perishables behind but was bringing along any transportable food that would go stale before I returned.  If we didn’t use it on Unleashed, we could use it later on Scout.   

I found a few minutes to update my blog before Cherie came home to give me a ride to the marina with my bags.  We were going to the beach at Destiladeras for the late afternoon/evening and dropped my things off on the way. 

Big Waves at Destiladeras
A number of our friends had gone to the beach, earlier, by bus and already had a table set up on the sand.  We arrived around 16:00 with our friend, John, in tow.  We ordered food and drink and played in the water for a couple of hours.  Our original plan had been to stay for the sunset but the tide had reached our table and our friends were ready to go when the restaurant employees came to relocate us.  It was very windy and the surf was big so I was not inclined to go in the water, anyway.  We packed up and headed for La Cruz by 18:00.

The Beach at Destiladeras
Having returned early, I decided to accompany Cherie to the Brittania for the evening.  We were hungry, so stopped at the Octopus’ Garden for Tuesday burrito night.  The burritos were made from shredded pork and were huge.  We split one and both of us got plenty to eat.  I got a chance to say goodbye to the owner, Alfredo, without a big concert crowd around.  I promised to find him at his new location in the fall, wherever that might be.  I knew he would keep us informed via his frequent Facebook posts.

The Band at the Brittania
It was not very crowded at the Brittania but I did get a chance to say goodbye to John and Janice, Mark and Rosie, and Connie and Ted.  I danced with Keith from Poco Loco Dos and had a good time we didn’t stay late because we were planning to leave in the morning.


I looked at the weather when we got home and the weather window seemed rather dubious.  I mentioned that to Paul in a text before going to bed.

March 27, 2019

I looked at my messages when I awoke and received the news that Paul agreed it was not a good time to go and had scrapped our departure.  All my clothes were on the boat, so I couldn’t go to the gym.  I had a lazy morning and then rode the bicycle down to the marina to collect my guitar and enough clothes from the boat to make it until our next possible weather window on Saturday.
Unleashed, My Ride to La Paz


While I had been ready to leave, I had been sorry to miss Geo’s dance party at Oso’s Oyster Bar on Wednesday night.  Geo was playing rock 'n roll and blues that night, which he normally does not do.  I was interested to see that.  With our departure delayed, I got the chance to go.  I met Paul and Carol at Unleashed at 17:30 to share a glass of wine and eat the chicken I had bought in anticipation of leaving.  Then I bicycled over to Oso’s for the music. 

Ted, Rosie, Marc, Janice, and John at Oso's
The usual music groupies had reserved a table for eight.  It was a beautiful night.  We didn’t have a good view of the stage, but we had a lovely view of the marina.  Oso’s was absolutely packed and they had even set up tables outside on the Malecon.  The service was terribly slow and it took me over an hour to get a glass of wine.  That was probably a good thing, as the glasses were generous.  As it was, I was a little bit tipsy by the time I was asked to dance.

Leon Playing Washboard with Geo at Oso's
My partner was a good dancer, but a terrible show off.  He spun me all over the floor and several times dipped me nearly to the floor.  At one point I was upside down with my head practically on Geo’s feet.  It was a very strange perspective and I was not comfortable.  It took me three dances to escape his clutches and, by then, I felt I had made up for missing the gym that morning.  I stayed firmly anchored to the table after that and managed to pay my bill just before the show ended about 22:00.  As usual, the crowd thinned noticeably after 21:00.  We were not late night partiers.

March 28, 2019
Dawn at the La Cruz Marina

Having retrieved my exercise clothes, I got up early to run on Thursday.  Karen, Marc, and I planned to spend the day at a music festival at La Postal in Bucerias which started at 11:00.  I needed a nine volt battery for my guitar and wanted to go to the bank before we left.  I took a combi to the Mega where I ran into my friend, Graham, but failed to find a nine volt battery.  I did find a great pair of sandals in a shop in the mall.  It had always been impossible to buy shoes with any arch support in Mexico, but Birkenstock knock-offs had finally appeared in some of the tourist areas.  While they weren’t quite the quality of true Birkenstocks, they were about 20% of the price and were often more stylish.  I bought a great pair from a brand called Nomads for 549 pesos (about $28.)

I met Marc and Karen at La Postal.  The festival (if you could call it that) was small.  It was a fund raiser for a group of parents trying to start a Waldorf school.  They had a silent auction but the minimum bids were set too high and no one was bidding.  We camped there all day, moving from table to table so as not to monopolize prime real estate.  Karen ate three meals there and Marc and I two.

Javier and Diana Gutierrez Singing Opera
While the “festival” was not a great success, the music was surprisingly good.  They started off with Diana and Javier Gutierrez, a pair of opera singers who were among the organizers.  I wasn’t expecting much, but they were so good that even the neighbors came out to see what was going on.  

The second act was Chema Chendrix, composed of Andra (formerly the singer from Ana Banana’s and now the Drunken Duck) and some friends.  She was normally quite good, but was not used to playing with those musicians and was put off by the sound system.  (The soprano, beforehand, had overwhelmed the sound system completely on a few high notes.)  It wasn’t her best performance, but it was nice to see Andra, again, since I don’t frequent the Drunken Duck and had been wondering what had become of her.  Keith, from Poco Loco Dos, joined us and remained with us with the exception of slipping out for a dentist appointment in the late afternoon.

Diego Chavez
Andra was followed by Matt Storch, who played at the La Cruz Inn.  He went through just about my entire repertoire and it was all I could do not to sing along.  Next, came Cesar Velasquez, a Mexican saxophone player who played Kenny G-like soft jazz and then Elaine Canineo and Chris Gomez, the Brazilian singer and bass player that we had seen at Chacala.

Diego Chavez came on at 17:15 and I had been waiting all day for his set.  I had enjoyed his performance at the San Pancho Music Festival and was happy to get the chance to hear more of his mostly original music.
Dueto Aguamarine at La Postal











We had moved to another table further from the stage when a birthday party of thirty mostly children invaded the upper level where the stage was.  Cherie and John joined us there and we eventually moved to a larger table nearer to the stage.  We couldn’t hear much of Olivia de La Cruz or Caravane who played while that party was going on.  They finally left in time for us to hear Dueto Aguamarine, who played from 20:00 to 23:00.  They were very good and, using looping technology, made a lot of music for two people.  They played all the traditional Mexican songs and the woman had a lovely voice.  The young man playing the guitar sounded great, but I could barely stand to watch him playing Spanish guitar with a flat pick.  He must have been self-taught.

We stayed until the end and we were amazed that they managed to produce correct bills for all that we had eaten and drunk over the course of twelve hours with friends coming and going.


March 29, 2019

I made one last trip to the gym on Friday and said goodbye to Fred and Judy from Wings.  I stopped at a farmacia on my way to the bus stop and purchased some packets of electrolyte powder to use on the crossing.  The packets were much smaller and lighter than bottled drinks, although they had a salty taste and weren’t very inviting.

I spent the afternoon doing a last load of laundry and practicing the guitar.  Then I schlepped across La Cruz with my guitar and backpack full of computer and heavy music to drop them off at the boat on my way to meet Karen.

"Noche Mexicana" in Nuevo Vallarta
Vallarta Azteca
My last night was spent in Nuevo Vallarta at “Noche Mexicana,” a fundraiser for Tierra de los Ninos, an organization that teaches life skills to underprivileged children.  Karen drove a truckload of us to the party, which was held in one of the covered structures behind the San Javier Hospital where the Nuevo Vallarta market is held on Tuesdays.  They had food vendors, a raffle, and a singer who entertained us while we ate.  I had a bowl of tasty pozole and a couple of tacos al pastor from Tacos Junior.  After everyone had eaten, there was a show put on by the award-winning dance troupe Vallarta Azteca.  They performed traditional dances from Jalisco.  They were very good and the costumes were outstanding.


Excellent Mariachis
After the dancing, there was mariachi music.  These mariachis were excellent.  All the violins were in tune and they stayed together.  The violinists strolled through the audience.  I was tired, but still glad to stay to hear them.  Karen, who loves mariachis, would not have been budged, anyway.  She dropped me off just before 23:00 and I went straight to bed, needing to get up at 5:45 the next morning for our departure.




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