Friday, May 3, 2019

HANGING AROUND LA PAZ


April 24, 2019

La Paz is a nice town.  The Malecon is beautiful, the food is great, and there is a great community.  It isn’t really my community, however, although most of my cruising friends pass through when coming and going from the Sea of Cortez.  La Paz is a place where cruisers go when they are tired of cruising.  People live aboard long term or move ashore.  The average age is older than on the mainland.  Not that we don’t have our share of “retired” cruisers in La Cruz, also.  La Paz is just more convenient to the United States and it’s a big city.  It’s hotter, but less humid.  It works better for some people, but I miss the music in La Cruz and the more “Mexican” culture.  Baja is different.  Not better or worse.  It just doesn’t resonate with my preferences.  I am a mainland girl.  I prefer to visit La Paz for short periods.
Jamming at Club Cruceros

We came back to La Paz to ready Scout for the bash back to Marina del Rey. We gave her a good rinsing after returning from the islands and filled the water tanks.  Our first day back turned out to be a big music day for me.  There was an acoustic jam in the late morning where four or five of us got together and played.  The local flamenco/classical guitarist, Jesus Gallo, stopped by to post flyers for his upcoming concert and I lent him my flamenco guitar to play for us.  It was always nice to hear someone really play my guitar.  It sounded great and he was impressed with it.  My guitar is the Gypsy Kings model by Cordoba, and they are quite popular here in Mexico.  Several successful guitarists in La Cruz also play them, a fact that reassured me I had chosen well.  The other popular one is Yamaha’s flamenco guitar, which would have been my second choice.

Vendor Stalls
New Skate Park
I played at the jam and then spent some time in the afternoon working on my blog and rehearsing for the open mic later that evening.  The critical mission, however, was to get my nails done.  They were a mess after a couple of weeks out cruising.  I had damaged them shortly after they were done the last time while trying to stretch too small fender covers over Scout’s fenders and they were badly chipped.  I walked back downtown and returned to my economical salon in a semi-underground mall on Revolucion.  The park next to the tourist center, which had been surrounded by a plywood wall for the past year, had finally opened.  One side featured stalls for vendors and the other side was a skate park.

We met Juliana, Josh, and Alex from the motor vessel Serenity for dinner at Fuego y Lena for a pizza dinner and then we all headed to Bob Marlin’s for open mic.  I had a little trouble singing due to the lingering effects of my cold, but the set still went well.  There were also a lot of other talented musicians and a pretty good crowd.  We stayed until after 21:00, a late night for us.

April 25, 2019

Having stayed up late the night before, I didn’t get up in time to run.  Feeling guilty, I decided to walk to the Chedraui to pick up some toiletries I needed.  It was hot, but I managed the roughly 1.5 mile walk each way.  I stopped at a few hardware stores looking for charcoal water filters for the boat but failed to find any.

A Super Burro
Greg and I went to La Costa for the Thursday night dart game.  Events at La Costa always started at 19:00, which presented us with a dilemma about where to eat.  Greg wasn’t fond of La Costa’s menu and our favorite haunts didn’t open until 19:00.  That night, we decided to go to Super Burro for burritos.  They weren’t Gina’s burritos, but they were good and very large.


Greg Playing Darts at La Costa
Greg and I were on opposite teams for darts and my team slaughtered theirs all evening.  I had missed playing darts in La Cruz since the Gecko Rojo closed its doors.  There was a big crowd for darts, and we had a very social evening.

April 26, 2019


I got up early and walked down to Marina Palmira and back.  It was a pretty morning.  I was very far behind on my blog and I spent nearly all day working on it.

The Anchorage in La Paz

Pearl Sculpture on the Malecon

The Mezquite Grill














We met up with John and Elinore from Nakamal, friends of mine from La Cruz, for dinner at the Mezquite Grill.  Greg and I shared a giant fillet Mignon for dinner.  It was easily enough food for both of us.  The steak was about two inches thick and I could have cut it with a fork.  I had never had a better steak.  The 350-peso price was a lot for Mexico, but a tremendous value for the quality of the meal.  John and Elinore were equally pleased with their menu choices.  Greg and Elinore shared a piece of flan but John and I elected to save our appetites for ice cream later.

The Skate Park Was Crowded at Night
Textured Strips to Guide the Blind
Greg and I walked home along the Malecon.  The new skate park was crowded with skaters on Friday night.  Someone must have been renting rollerblades because we saw several people on the Malecon trying to learn to rollerblade with the aid of a walker-like device made of PVC pipe with wheels on the bottom.  

The Malecon was crowded.  We stopped at La Fuente for ice cream and then sat on a bench to enjoy the view and people watch, remarking how many families and elderly people were out at night in “dangerous” Mexico.  We could not have felt safer.  The Malecon even featured a bumpy stripe down its entire length so that the blind could safely follow the Malecon unguided.


April 27-28, 2019

I walked on Saturday morning.  Someone had managed to get his panga trailer stuck in the water at the launch ramp near Marina Palmira.  They had detached it from the truck and were attempting to push it further in to float the boat off as I passed by.  At least the truck was not endangered like the one we saw in San Evaristo.
Panga Trailer Stuck in the Water

I spent another big chunk of time catching up on my blog on Saturday and Greg changed the oil.

Unloading Our Provisions
Our friends on Serenity rented a car on Saturday morning and had the car until 10:00 AM on Sunday.  We met at 7:00 on Sunday morning to take a trip to Walmart for provisioning.  We didn’t have time to pick up everything we needed but managed to purchase the heavy and bulky items like drinks and toilet paper.  We got to the cashier about 8:30 and were told that we couldn’t purchase alcohol before 9:00 in the morning.  According to them, it was illegal to sell alcohol between 22:00 and 9:00 throughout Mexico.  We weren’t sure that was true everywhere but hadn’t been in the habit of shopping between those hours.  It was certainly possible to get drinks in bars after 22:00.

We made a quick trip to Home Depot where we managed to buy the water filters we needed but couldn’t find plumber’s putty.  Then we returned to Walmart at 9:00 to pick up the alcohol that we failed to buy the first time.  We and the cashiers all had a good laugh about how desperate we were, but we only had the car for another hour.

Our third crew member, Bob, arrived just before dinnertime on Sunday.  We were relaxing with drinks in the cockpit when Tom and Cary from Dragon’s Toy pulled up in their dinghy.  They had been trying to text me, but my phone was dead.  They had just arrived from La Cruz that afternoon.
Koko’s, the restaurant around the corner, had just started serving tacos and drinks on weekend evenings and were offering free drinks to the first ten patrons.  We all headed up there and had a round of free drinks and some excellent fish and beef tacos.  There was another big table of cruisers and it was quite a party atmosphere.  We had another round of drinks and then they brought us shots of their house liqueur made from tequila, cream, and peanut butter.  I hadn’t had that much to drink in years.  It was fun to see Bob, Tom, and Cary again.

Back on Scout, we stayed up to watch an episode of Grand Tour (Amazon’s version of Top Gear), although Bob had a long day of travel and rapidly faded.

April 29, 2019
The Malecon Past Palmira

Bob and I got up early to walk on Monday morning.  We walked past Marina Palmira and around the corner until we could see Marina Costa Baja.  My pedometer app wasn’t working because my phone had received a software update that confused many of my applications, but Bob’s said we had walked 7.7 miles.  I thought that was as exaggeration, but we probably walked at least seven.

We were hungry when we got back, so we collected Greg and walked up to Olimpia for breakfast.  Olimpia had a breakfast special with eggs and bacon, chilaquiles, beans, and hash browns with coffee and juice for sixty pesos.  I finally succumbed to temptation and ordered a big plate of liver and onions with beans, coffee, and juice for seventy.  It was delicious.

We did a few things around the boat, but mostly napped and lounged until happy hour when Lance from Shamaya stopped by.  We munched pretzels and had gin and tonics.  We didn’t have time for dinner before Jesus Gallo was playing flamenco guitar at La Costa at 19:00.  We headed over there and shared a plate of nachos.  The concert was sparsely attended.  I enjoyed the show, but the music was more classical than flamenco.  He played good Spanish guitar, but lacked the gypsy fire of a true flamenco player.

April 30, 2019

Bob and I got up early to walk and I led him the opposite direction to the Fonatur marina so he could see the facilities there.  It would have been a six-mile round trip except that we made several detours on the return trip.  We were trying to avoid walking on Abasolo, the main drag, and ran into various dead ends.

We had worked up an appetite and returned to Olimpia for another big breakfast.  We were too late for the breakfast special, so we all ordered mixed omelets with chorizo, ham, bacon, and sausage (hot dogs.)  Unfortunately, they also included mushrooms which I could have done without.  Still, I had plenty to eat.

Bob and Greg headed off after breakfast to shop for filters and plumber’s putty while I returned to the boat to scrape the old plumber’s putty off the hatches before it got too hot.  Greg had sealed the hatches with plumber’s putty to prevent them from leaking during the previous year’s bash but had neglected to remove it upon reaching Marina del Rey.  After a year in the sun, it was hard and flaky and had been raining down on us every time we opened a hatch.  I had removed much of it earlier but needed to complete the project.  I scraped it off with the handle of a plastic fork and vacuumed up the crumbs with a handheld vacuum until the battery died.  I then went below and finished cleaning the oven which Greg had sprayed with oven cleaner the day before.

Greg and Bob had taken their time returning from shopping so as to avoid cleaning the oven.  They returned with a supply of shock cord and I relaxed in the cockpit, threading new shock cord through the cover for the life raft while they dug out the shop vac and scraped the putty off the last two hatches.  We had a 14:30 deadline to complete projects because we were meeting Josh, Juliana, and Alex from Serendipity to go to the movies at 14:30.


Movie Theaters in La Paz
We completed our projects with time to spare and napped until it was time to go.  Bob elected to skip the film, but Greg and I headed out with Serendipity to the Cinemex theaters to see Avengers: Endgame.  There were five of us so we couldn’t fit in an Uber.  We took a minivan taxi to the theater for seventy pesos.  We had elected a screening in the “platino (platinum)” theater with wide reclining seats, blankets, and food service.  The admission price was 125 pesos or about $6.50.  Another 154 pesos bought us a bucket of caramel corn and two half liter bottles of soda.  We settled into our comfy seats to watch the three-hour movie.  Josh, Juliana, and Alex ordered a pizza which was delivered to their seats.  Each set of two seats had an end table between them with a small lamp.  If you wanted to summon the waiter, you turned on the lamp.

Luxury Seating

Greg and I were not the Avengers fans that the crew members of Serendipity were, but Alex filled us in enough on what had happened in the previous film that we could get the gist of what was happening.  The movie was entertaining, and it was fun to see all the Marvel characters together in one film.  We enjoyed the luxury theater and the film was a bonus.

We couldn’t find a large Uber or a taxi when the film ended so we walked the two miles back to our neighborhood, heading straight to Chino’s for tacos as we had promised to meet Bob there at 19:00 and were already late.  Fortunately, Bob had met up with some other friends from the dock and was not sitting there alone.  They had waited to order, so we all ate dinner in a big, noisy group.  Those of us who had been to the movies weren’t very hungry, but I still managed to eat two tacos, although I passed on the always delicious beans.  We were too stuffed to even consider ice cream for dessert.



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