Sunday, December 9, 2018

SAILING INTO SUMMER – CROSSING FROM LA PAZ TO LA CRUZ



November 29, 2018

Our Course Through the San Lorenzo Channel
We rose at 6:00 and pulled out of the marina five minutes after sunrise.  There was absolutely no wind. We motored out the channel and headed for the San Lorenzo Channel.  Boats ahead of us reported a long line across the channel but we didn’t encounter it.  We saw only one buoy with a flag on it that may or may not have been related.
Pulling into Muertos

We were headed for Muertos where we planned to spend the night.  It was our intention to arrive there before sunset.  We motored all day, finally rounding Punta Arena in the late afternoon.  We pulled into Muertos at 17:30 and anchored smoothly.  Dinner was arrachera tacos from Rancho Viejo.  Greg and I had got a good laugh when we heard Tom and Cary were bringing arrachera, since we had been eating it at nearly every meal for days.  Still, arrachera from Rancho Viejo is always good and I was hungry, having slept through lunch.  We had beer with dinner and retired early, planning to leave at midnight so as to arrive in La Cruz by mid-afternoon.

November 30, 2018

A bright orange half moon was just rising when we got up at midnight.  It was still very dark and hard to make out the other boats in the anchorage.  A strong land breeze had blown up while we were trying to sleep.  We weighed anchor and I directed Cary past the other boats until we were clear enough to head into the wind and raise sail.  We sailed for a few minutes, but the land breeze quickly petered out and we had to start the motor.  The next leg of our journey was 250 miles southeast to a point off the Marias Islands.

Cary took the first watch.  Tom and I sat up for a little while to enjoy the lovely, warm evening and watch the moon rise.  Then we went below to try to sleep.

Sunrise Over the Sea
Tom relieved Cary at 4:00.  I got up shortly after 6:00, having had plenty of sleep.  I grabbed a banana and a nut bar and joined Tom in the cockpit to watch the uneventful sunrise.  It was surprisingly warm.  I was comfortable in shorts and bare feet and my long-sleeved shirt was soon too warm.  After having frequently been chilly in La Paz, it felt good to be sailing south towards balmy Banderas Bay.

My watch started at 7:00 and soon I was alone.  The water was glassy and we motored on at a steady five knots.  The wind had dropped to about two knots.  I never saw another boat.  The most exciting thing I sighted was a chunk of Styrofoam that may or may not have been attached to a net.  I saw a dolphin in the distance and, though he eventually crossed our bow, he did not stop to play with us.

Cary joined me about 10:30 and the wind gradually built.  By 11:30, we had seventeen knots, had killed the motor, and were sailing along at 6.5 knots.  Clouds appeared from nowhere and it became noticeably cooler.  When Tom came up around noon, I went below to write.  

Just as the sun began to set, a flock of boobies spotted our boat and were determined to land on the bow. Nothing would dissuade them.  Five or six boldly roosted on the bow pulpit.  We continued to sail along at a good clip until the sun went down. 

Dinner was roast chicken from Walmart with salad and a big pile of broccoli.  Anyone who knows me knows that I hate broccoli, but I actually managed to eat a large serving.  There was butter and it was cooked to perfection. I had the midnight watch, so went below to try to sleep after dinner.

December 1, 2018

Boobies on the Bow
Isla Maria Madre
I didn’t get much real sleep before I came on watch at midnight.  We were once again motoring.  I could see the running lights reflecting off the boobies’ tail feathers.  They kept me company all through my watch.  When I went below at 3:00, I was finally ready to sleep.


Bold Boobies

Tom Dislodging the Boobies
Morning found the boobies still present.  They went out to fish, but soon returned, staunchly defending their territory against invaders.  We motored south all day and the boobies rode along.  We pulled abreast of the Marias about 16:00 and Tom decided that was a good time to dislodge the hitchhikers.  He set up the wash down hose and blasted the boobies (and their excrement) off the bow.  They took the hint and headed for shore.  I half expected them to return, but they did not.

 Cary made us a lovely stew out of the leftover arrachera and we ate dinner in the cockpit and watched the spectacular sunset.  I took the first watch from 18:00 to 21:00.  It was pitch dark, as the moon had yet to rise.  We hadn’t seen another boat since we left Muertos.  I slept only fitfully once I got off watch.

December 2, 2018

Sunrise Over Banderas Bay
I came back on watch at 3:00.  The dawn watch is my favorite and I enjoyed watching the sun rise.  We were getting close to La Cruz and could see the sun rising over Banderas Bay.  Sunrise in Banderas Bay is nearly always amazing, as the sun rises from behind the mountains, painting them with varying colors.   We motored around Punta Mita and then along the shore of the bay, arriving at the La Cruz Marina by mid-morning.

Pulling into La Cruz
I couldn’t wait to get home and take a shower and a nap.  I packed my bags and loaded all my belongings into a taxi for the short ride home.  Cherie was frantically cleaning when I arrived.  Our house sitter had left the kitchen window open and rats had invaded our kitchen, nesting in the stove.  The landlord had dragged the stove into the street and dislodged the rats, but their evidence remained.

I took a shower and tried to sleep but ended up cleaning instead.  In the late afternoon, I walked to the local grocery store to buy a few provisions and made some dinner.  The food I had left behind had been stored in a sealed bin in my bedroom and was rat free.  I was tired and groggy but happy to be home at last.

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